I have to admit that when I first thought about Caerlaverock, it wasn’t top of my list of castles I had to visit. But several years back we decided to go south rather than north for our holidays, and spent a few days exploring Dumfries. I definitely missed the hills and dramatic scenery of the Highlands or more central Borders, but this castle went a long way to making up for the lack.
As with many Scottish castles, Caerlaverock boasts a car park a short walk from the castle itself, allowing visitors the joy of discovering its impressive nature upon the approach. Even on the mostly cloudy day we visited – it had been raining not long before – the ruins of the castle are really impressive, particularly its singular triangular shape.
Another oddity about Caerlaverock is that the present castle sits only a short walk through the woods from the location of the first castle built at this spot.
Little more survives of this original location than the shape and a few stones, and focus shifted to the new spot in the 1260s and 70s, but one can get a feel for a well-fortified castle that would, when the sea level was higher, be accessible directly from the nearby Solway Firth. The path through the woods also encourages you to walk completely around the outside of the castle and experience some truly spectacular views that emphasise its unique architecture.
After circling the castle, we crossed the moat to explore the interior buildings and especially the carved façade. It is worth mentioning that this castle was besieged in 1300 by King Edward I, and while the garrison was eventually compelled to surrender, the size of the force defending the castle was significantly smaller than expected, demonstrating the effectiveness of the defences.
I strongly believe that clouds make for the most dramatic pictures – better even that bright sunshine – and this is particularly true in one of my favourite photos of Caerlaverock, which we have actually printed out on canvas for our living room walls. It may be a touch out of the way if you are exploring Edinburgh and points north, but for a true castle enthusiast – or a fan of the Scottish Wars of Independence – I would highly recommend making the trip.
The Wandering Medievalist 
5 responses to “Caerlaverock Castle”
I would love to visit this castle. next time in Scotland?
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Possibly! It’s a bit out of the way but we can try to work it out!
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