We knew that the second day of our time on Syke was going to be wet – it was predicted to start raining at about noon, so we got on our way relatively quickly in the morning for the hour-long journey to Dunvegan Castle. It was the one and only castle I insisted upon visiting, and I hoped we could get a bit of a visit before the rain closed in.
I’ve written an account of our visit to the castle, during which the rain started at least two hours earlier than it was meant to – but that is standard in the Highlands. So, we headed back towards Uig, passing through alternating heavy storms and light drizzle. I realised as I drove that by the time we reached our cottage we would not want to leave again, and so my mind was also on foraging for dinner. With luck, we found a café that included the word ‘deli’ and I pulled in for a coffee and exploration.
The Dunvegan was the perfect spot for what I needed – they had cakes, crackers, cheeses and some venison salami that I felt should be tried. I wish I could remember the name of the cheese I bought which the girl said was local, and was amazingly creamy and delicious, but no amount of googling seems to find it. In any case, I stocked up and ran back to the car where the family had decided to camp out.
As we pulled out of the Dunvegan town, we passed the view of the Two Churches, which is actually the start of what appears to be a circular walk – must try it next time.
From here we headed home to our cottage which, as I have mentioned in previous posts, was called the Homer. It was part of a set of 2 or 3 cottages rented by one family and the owners were very friendly and attentive, stopping by once a day to check that all was well. The house was incredibly well-equipped with top-of-the-range stove, fridge, washing machine and dishwasher. The kitchen had every utensil you might need, and previous tenants had left behind bits and pieces – tea, rice, salt, pepper. The beds were comfortable and rooms warm, and the instructions and advice provided were detailed and very helpful.
We spent the rest of the day hunkered down in the cottage, for the most part – the wind and rain were intense at times, but the living room remained toasty warm and tightly battened down against the weather. The TV had every channel we could possibly want – had we been able to agree on something to watch. At one point, Dad got restless and suggested we go for a short walk, which we did – to the entrance of the property and down a side road that led to a charming house built in the old island style of stone walls and thatched roof.
After this detour we headed home and all read and relaxed until it was time to break out our foraged dinner. Cheese, salami and crackers made a good accompaniment to some veggies and snacks I had from Marks and Spencer – not the fanciest of meals but tasty enough! It was a good night to head to bed early, and prepare for the next day of exploration.
I thought this might also be a good time to make a few recommendations based upon my one-time visit, and reflect on a few things I wish to explore in more depth upon inevitable return.
Recommendations
- Accommodation: going self-catered is a great option, especially at super-busy times of year, and it’s an option the other half and I have preferred more and more wherever we go. It makes everything more flexible and often saves you money. On Skye in particular, there are cottages everywhere that will probably provide better views than a hotel. But plan ahead. Highly recommended to bring a cooler or ice box and prepare to buy your food in Broadford, Portree, or before you cross to Skye (we bought most of our supplies in Fort William).
- If you opt for a hotel/B&B, ask them when you book if you need to make a dinner reservation. We tried a few days out and one place did not have any tables – for the rest of the month.
- Weather – well duh, but make sure you have something to do on a rainy day.
- Walking – bring a change of sneakers/hiking boots/whatever you like to wear. There are boggy paths and your feet will get wet almost inevitably.
- Drivers – prepare yourself for the roads. They are windy, narrow, and you are often out-weighed by the massive busses that negotiate the twists and turns so easily. Needless to say, watch your petrol level and be aware of hidden pot-holes. Make sure someone in the car knows how to change a tire! (We came so close…)
- Beer – check out the Isle of Skye Brewing Co for some excellent and really reasonably-priced beers. Particulary recommended is the Syke Red, if you like red ale. I may be disowned by certain friends for admitting I did not try the gin…
- Food – we didn’t eat anywhere (see above recommendation on reservations) but we did stop for supplies at the The Dunvegan, an inn, restaurant, coffee shop and deli. Their cakes were spectacular and they had local cheese…well worth a visit!
On my list for next time
- Over and above all, more time for hiking and walking!
- Hike the Quiraing. Views can only get better.
- Hike the Old Man of Storr trail.
- Try the Two Churches walk – even in the pouring rain looked like something out of Wuthering Heights.
- Check out the Skye Museum of Island Life – it was literally minutes from where we stayed, and looks like it has some fascinating examples of cottages and more.
- Visit Monkstadt – looks gorgeous and would be tempted to try to stay here if I had the time and money.
- Explore the other coasts – clearly to adequately cover any portion of Skye you need a lot longer than we had, and we missed the whole south/west.
The only thing stopping me from making plans to return is the distance. It is perfectly possible to get to Skye in one day but it is a bit of a trek, and neither of us are keen to do it in one go. This means inevitably breaking the drive somewhere – Fort William was perfect really – and making a long weekend less feasible. But I will be keeping an eye out for the opportunity.
The Wandering Medievalist 