As I have doubtless mentioned before, we lived in Tayport, Fife during the first six months of the Covid pandemic in 2020, and for about a year before that. One of the main reasons I loved our flat there was that the view was spectacular – right out over the Firth of Tay, where I could watch the busy boat traffic and the currents changing. Sometimes there were dolphins, but more often it was just the view I loved – the changing weather and light as I looked across to Broughty Ferry and its castle.
For years I saw the castle only through the zoom lens of my camera, but was determined to eventually see it up close. Finally, as part of a work event that included a bit of regional exploration, I have been able to do so!
Location and History
Broughty Castle is located at a prominent point on the northern edge of the Firth of Tay, about 5 miles east of the centre of Dundee, with a sandy beach on one side and sheltered harbour on the other. It is easily accessed by public transport, with busses running regularly and trains taking only 5 minutes from Dundee. From the Victorian-era train station, the walk to the waterfront is less than 10 minutes.
Broughty Ferry itself is a charming coastal town with plenty of unique shops, cafés, restaurants and pubs; it is easy to see why students and staff from Dundee might wish to live here or visit on weekends. Formerly a prosperous fishing village, in the nineteenth century the town became a key location for the wealthy jute barons of Dundee to build their villas and estates.
Even before this, Broughty Ferry was important as one end of the ferry that carried rail cars across the Tay on the line running from Aberdeen to Edinburgh. The other side was of course in Tayport, which previously was known as Ferryport-on-Tay (and in fact a sign bearing this name still exists at the edge of town). The enormous ramps leading into the water, wide enough for the rail cars, are both still visible today; the construction of the first Tay Rail Bridge in the 1870s rendered this ferry moot, though there is a reconstruction of it in the castle museum.
Relatively ‘new’ for Scotland, Broughty Castle was constructed in the 1490s; the strategic location is clear as you have an almost 360°view of the estuary, coastline and ocean beyond. There had been fortifications here for several decades, and a number of English ships were captured off the coast in the late fifteenth century.
The castle did go through a period of decline in the eighteenth century, but it was purchased in 1846 by the Edinburgh and Northern Railway, which built the harbour for the rail ferry. Ownership was passed to the War Office in 1855, and so it came back into military use.
The castle would remain in use as a defensive structure through the Second World War, when a defence post and lookout platform were placed in the main tower.
My visit
The castle is located at the end of a promenade along the coastline, where at low tide a touch of beach is visible. This portion of coast is very popular with walkers and cyclists, and in theory I think you could walk here from Dundee though I’m not familiar with the state of the path.
The shape of the tower is very familiar to anyone who likes Scottish castles; you will see the similar square(ish) tower at Castle Campbell, Balvaird, Doune, Hill of Tarvit, and many more. Perhaps less usually, the medieval tower is surrounded by much more modern fortifications reminiscent of the era of regular cannon (there are several lovely cannon specimens within the grounds). Earthen banks with concrete walls surround the castle on three sides, with the approach only still through a medieval gate.
Excitingly for us on the day we visited, the castle is free to enter; hours are seasonal, so it is worth checking ahead of time. Once through the gate, one is met immediately with a courtyard, where visitors can either enter the castle proper or explore the ramparts. We chose the second option to start, climbing up concrete steps to viewpoints where the shadows of large WWII guns are still evident, in rings indicating bolted-down machinery. The view really is fantastic, looking up the Tay towards Dundee (and the Tay Road and Rail Bridges), across to Tentsmuir, out to sea or up the coast towards Carnoustie.
I particularly, for some reason, enjoyed the view back out the main gate, where the town of Broughty Ferry was visible in the near distance. Also enjoyable were the lovely old gate mechanisms, with enormous metal weights ready to hold the doors open or keep them closed.
While I could – and did – have stood for a long time watching the water and the Tay traffic, it was time eventually to explore the interior of the castle.
Now, if visitors are looking for ornately-decorated living quarters with medieval panelling, as you can find at some castles, they will be disappointed. Instead, this tower is still very much in modern use with each layer dedicated to a different part of the museum.
Access to the tower and upper floors of the museum is by a series of narrow stone steps, so some strength of joints is required – the stairs are certainly authentic, with dips in the stone where many feet have travelled, though nothing as dramatic as one often finds in old church towers. Nevertheless, the stairwells are narrow and winding.
The first floor – up a short flight of stairs – is the museum shop and some displays including the one on the rail ferry. There are very helpful print-outs on the history of the castle and some gifts, postcards, and memorabilia. One floor up from that is the gallery, with some local artist impressions of the castle, Broughty Ferry, and some of the inhabitants.
Above this floor is one aimed mostly at children with some dress-up and more learning-based exhibits. I have to admit that when there is a tower like this I am always anxious and eager to get to the top, choosing to explore as I work my way down, and this visit was no different. Continuing upwards, I came across the castle’s collection of medieval and early modern weaponry, including some armour, beautifully-decorated early firearms, flintlock rifles (very ‘Last of the Mohicans’ in feel) and more. Any weapon enthusiast will, I am sure, find it fascinating – one rifle even came from Japan and showed more typically eastern attention to fine decoration detail.
Finally, just off the display room was a few extra steps up to what is now an observation deck for wildlife such as birds, seals and dolphins. There is some information there about what you might see, and also the view before you. Unfortunately, the more aggressive avian visitors have forced the castle to put up a net around the deck, so pictures from this height are a bit difficult.
While not a castle that you may plan to spend a whole day visiting, Broughty Castle is positively crammed with historical information about the many eras in which this coastal defence was used. There are displays about the Tay lifeboat crews, about submarine miners in the late 1800s, the ‘Rough Wooing’ of Henry VIII, and more. Definitely a good option for families and those visiting Broughty Ferry for the day, the castle is educational and provides excellent views (I suppose a caveat here for family visitors – there is no fence around the edge of the ramparts, so youngsters will need to be watched!).
Plus, there are more than a few excellent spots nearby to stop for coffee, ice cream and cake. Our choice for the day was the Braw Tea Café, a not for profit enterprise providing on-the-job training and personal development to support disadvantaged women. While not open every day, when it is the café has excellent cakes and an outdoor seating area perfect for a sunny afternoon.
So if you are thinking about a visit to this lovely town, definitely do not miss out the castle!
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The Wandering Medievalist 