Tag: Fort WIlliam

To Fort William and back again, part 2: driving south

Sep 25th, 2024

The stretch of road just south of Fort William leading through Glencoe and across Rannoch Moor is hands down one of my favourite driving routes in the world. No matter the weather, I cannot help but smile at the approach – even on the days when the rain is pouring sideways and the wind is trying to blow the car off the narrow road, as it did on one occasion which felt like driving through a hurricane. In good weather, it is simply breath-taking. In bad weather, it is atmosphere, dramatic, and a touch frightening. Either way, one should only attempt the drive when rested, confident, and possessing a full tank of petrol. Or at least a car that can make it at least 100 miles on the tank it has.

Sometimes the road is relatively clear, but most of the time it is on the crowded side, with visitors, tour busses, delivery lorries and of course locals just trying to make their way from point A to point B all crowding up the narrow highway. If stuck behind a lorry or bus, you can find your speed significantly diminished, and some will take risks to overtake. Needless to say, do this only if you feel comfortable and safe. Otherwise you just have to suck it up and enjoy the scenery – darn.

So here we are, a step-by-step of the drive, stopping at all of my favourite viewpoints.

Part 1: Fort William to Onich – 10 miles

The A82 route from Fort William to Onich is about 10 miles, and hugs the edge of Loch Linnhe. For most of the route, the trees block the view of the water, but there are a few gaps and parking spots where you can pull over – in particular the Linnhe Picnic Area, about 7 miles along, which is a spit of land sticking out into the loch and providing views in both directions.

This stretch of road is winding, no question, with few straight bits. My advice? Pay attention if the signs warn you of a sharp turn.

We have never stopped properly in Onich but it seems a nice little town with a few hotels, guesthouses and B&Bs taking advantage of the proximity of Fort William and Glencoe.

Part 2: Onich to Ballachulish – 4.5 miles

From Onich, it is a simple matter of following the A82 across the Ballachulish Bridge, which spans Loch Leven. Once across you can head straight south towards Oban, and this is also a beautiful drive along the water, but my route will take you left towards Glencoe.

Almost as soon as you turn you will be heading immediately for a distinctive sharp peak called the Pap of Glencoe, and beyond it ridges of mountains leading east. On our first ever long weekend away together, the other half and I found a deal at the Isles of Glencoe Hotel in Ballachulish, which sits on a promontory in the loch. The views are just spectacular, especially at sunset. If you can, pull over at the parking area along the loch just after the hotel, or even turn into the village and get a coffee or snack at Crafts and Things. It was more than 10 years ago that we visited, but the other half still fondly remembers sitting in the April sun, looking over the loch with a cuppa and a tiffin.

You can also take a quick detour left into the Loch Leven viewpoint (above), which as it suggests provides a view down the loch towards the bridge, at this point obscured by islands. Mountains rise in the distance and give you a preview of what is to come. This is also the route to the Glencoe Lochan walks.

Part 3: Ballachulish to Loch Achtriochtan – 5.5 miles

After Ballachulish the road turns inland away from the loch, and enters Glen Coe proper. Only 2 miles along on the right is the Glencoe Visitor Centre, where you can learn about the region and the famous massacre of 1692.

Mountains are rising on both sides of the road and ahead, often a combination of brown-grey scree and stone with lighter green patches of heather and ferns, and darker green foliage. The road here is in relatively good shape with a few potholes, and many drivers slow down both due to the sharp turns and the views. Enjoy the width of the lane while you can!

Another mile or so south, the road swings more sharply east to continue along the glen. Ahead of you the A82 stretches along the valley and then begins to climb, and ahead to the right is Loch Achtriochtan.

It can be a very busy and treacherous stretch of road, with drivers going faster than they should and plenty of tour busses and caravans, so I recommend pulling into the Loch Achtriochtan car park. Here you can either pause at the bridge, or cross to make friends with some sheep and approach the waterside. This spot allows you to capture the gorgeous hillsides and loch.

There is also apparently a turn-off around here to view Hagrid’s hut from the Harry Potter films, though I have never done so.

Part 4: Loch Achtriochtan to the Three Sisters viewpoint – 2 miles

Once you have dragged yourself away form the the loch, it is two miles further to the pièce de résistance of this drive – the view of the Three Sisters of Glencoe. Until quite recently, there were several places you could turn off and you were often taking your life in your hands trying to park and find a safe place to get back onto the road. In the last year or two however they have built a proper car park – and another one for tour busses – to allow the many visitors to safely park and explore. There are a few parking spots slightly further up the road too, and there are paths leading down into the valley or up the hillsides.

The Three Sisters of Glencoe is one of the most photographed spots in Scotland and only a visit need tell you why. I have countless pictures from different times of year and I can never decide which one I prefer. Some day soon I hope to do some of the walk down into the valley and across the bridge, though I know I do not have the fitness or skills needed to venture too much further up into the hills at this point. Aonach Eagach Car Park is another good option but often too busy to find a space. It is at the trailhead for the Lost Valley trail and provides a slightly different view of the valley.

Side note: if it seems at this point as if you are just driving a few miles and then stopping again, you’re not wrong, but I promise the stops are worth it. If you get bored, skip one! But if this is your only trip to Scotland, I’d take advantage of them all.

Part 5 – Three Sisters Viewpoint to Meeting of the Three Waters viewpoint – less than 1 mile

Yes, this is a short drive. I had passed it by many times before I made myself actually stop on one beautiful autumn day. The waters are, as it sounds, three separate rivers (Allt Coire Gabhail, Allt Doire-bheith and the River Coe) that meet here at a pool and series of waterfalls, before continuing down the glen towards the lochs.

There is a short climb from the car park that takes you up the rocks and over the waterfall, and the start of the climb is a bit ropey. But, once you have clambered up the hill, you reach a stunning viewpoint that shows you the newly built road, the falls, and the burn heading up into the mountains. There is a pool where I have seen people swimming – brave souls – and of course a trail that follows the burn. I dragged my octogenerian father up to see the view and I think even he was impressed. It is easy to see here the old military road, which was in modern times replaced by the route of the A82.

One point I should make is that in that .7 miles between the two spots, you are driving along a narrow road.

At one point, the highway cuts through the hillside, with solid rock towering on either side, and leaving very little room for error. Not that anyone would err…

It can be a bit harrowing even after several goes, so take it slow and easy.

It is very easy to miss the parking spot for the Meeting of the Three Waters

and this is not an easy place to turn around, so definitely use your Google/Applemaps or whatever Satnav system you prefer to warn you.

Part 6 – Meeting of the Three Waters to the Kingshouse Hotel – 5 miles

Beyond this parking spot are plenty more viewpoints and places where you can pull over, and it’s really about deciding how often you want to stop, and how busy they are. Sometimes there are so many cars parked in a small spot that you really cannot safely get off of the road. Once you have had your fill of waterfalls, you can make a bit of headway as the road opens up a bit with mountains on either side. Eventually the road will hug the edge of Rannoch Moor, and this is where in bad weather you can really start to feel the car being blown about.

The Kingshouse Hotel is a popular stopping place though they are strict about people coming in just for the view. I would love to stay and know friends who were married here during the pandemic – this area is famous for the amazing views of the mountain, Buachaille Etive Mór. You can also take a detour here and drive part of the way down Loch Etive, though as yet I have not done so. Some trip, one day!

Part 7 – Kingshouse Hotel to the Loch Ba viewpoint – 5 miles

Just after the hotel you will pass the turn-off to the Glencoe Ski resort – the trails are evident – and the mountains stay a bit closer on the right though they start to fall away on the left, as the moor creeps closer. This is quintessential Scotland, in my mind – boggy moor with mountains in the distance, countless little burns falling over rocks and carving their way down from hills and across the landscape. Rocks poke through either on their own or in clusters and chunks, covered in lichen and reminding one just how thin the soil is here. There are a few lone trees, but most of the landscape is relatively barren.

The final place that I cannot resist stopping is the Loch Ba viewpoint. There is usually plenty of space to pull over, and it is easy to see coming due to the lump of land that marks the view. Climbing this short hillock allows for 360 views, though it is the one almost due east that I love the most – glistening loch with plenty of small islands, leading away into the wilderness.

Behind you are the peaks of Glencoe, and ahead just the road, leading towards the next hills in the distance. I can understand why some might assess it as stark, but I think it is gorgeous.

Part 8 – Loch Ba viewpoint to Crianlarich – 19 miles

About three miles beyond the Loch Ba viewpoint, you realise how high the road still is when it suddenly, dramatically, begins to fall. There is a sharp descent through an s-bend that can challenge lorries and busses coming the other direction, though there is also a large parking area to pull over in if needed. From here, the road is a bit less dramatic though still stunning, crossing the Loch Tulla bridge and winding its way across the valley floor before climbing again.

One of your last views of the lochs and lowland of the edge of the moor comes at the far side of Loch Tulla, where there is a small parking area, but the views are better in person than in pictures. From here, the A82 is heading almost due south, passing through a number of villages and meeting up with the rail line that runs from Glasgow to Fort William. Bridge of Orchy and Tyndrum stand out as the two larger towns, with Tyndrum in particular possessing several hotels, petrol stations – if you can get in – and the Green Welly stop which has always been so busy that we haven’t been able to get in. For some reason there always seems to be a large gathering of motorcycles here.

Tyndrum is also where the highway branches off towards Oban, and from here south can get busier. The remainder of the drive to Crianlarich is following the River Fillian and its many small tributaries; mountains continue to dominate on both sides though they are slightly less dramatic than further north.

Crianlarich is another smallish town that has become significant for those heading to the Highlands. Firstly, it is where the road branches either to continue south towards Loch Lomond and Glasgow as the A82, or east to Loch Earn and Perth as the A85. Secondly, it is where the rail line divides. As I mentioned in my exploring Scotland by public transport post, the train from Glasgow north can go either to Fort William or Oban, and Crianlarich is where it stops long enough for the train to either split in two, or be re-joined. There is also a significant hiking peak, Ben More, not far from town, and plenty of places to stop for the night.

Part 9 – Crianlarich to Lochearnhead – 16 miles

The 16 miles from Crianlarich to Lochearnhead is highlighted by a bit wider road, and slightly lower mountains, though still offers glimpses of lochs off to the left. Just over half-way is the turn-off to Killin, where one can view the Falls of Dochart. There is also what I will always refer to as my emergency petrol station – on my last drive back with Dad, I misjudged how much petrol we had and could not see a place to stop in Crianlarich, so was running on fumes by the time we reached this spot. I was considering just going into Killin where I knew there was petrol, but this station saved us and allowed us to continue without a detour.

After the emergency petrol station, the road climbs and winds again through what is clearly planned woodland. One of the most dramatic parts of the drive is as this path falls again, with the road hugging the mountainside and a sharp drop on one side. Ahead, though, is Perthshire and in what feels like no time at all, you enter Lochearnhead, and take a left to stay on the A85. While there is not a huge amount here, there is a safe and relatively clean public toilet that can be a godsend if you have not stopped anywhere except viewpoints since Fort William.

Part 10 – Lochearnhead to Crieff – 19 miles

The drive along Loch Earn is beautiful. The loch itself is long and narrow, with plenty of well-to-do houses along the edge and water sports galore: paddleboarding, sailing, swimming and fishing are all advertised. Especially on a sunny day, the glimpses of glistening water through the trees make you want to stop and find a boat of your own.

The drive from one end to the other is about 7 miles, and the town at the far end – St Fillians – is a charming village with plenty of Victorian-era gingerbread-style houses and lovely gardens. After St Fillians, the driving is much more lowland, with farms on either side, sheep fields and stunning stone farmhouses dotted between stands of trees and hills.

Crieff itself is an excellent spot to stop for a snack if you need, or you can push on through towards Perth – another 15 miles. This road offers a more Fife and lowland feel. Fields stretch off into the disttance over rolling hills, and the distant Ochils on the horizon. I have never liked this stretch but I think it’s at least partly because I know I’m heading away from the mountains, and that never ceases to make me a bit sad.

Once you have done the circular drive from Perth to Fort William and back again, you will quickly decide which leg you prefer and where you like to stop. I’m fond of both routes really, though I find myself often preferring the northerly loop as it can be a touch faster, traffic depending. I am looking forward to trying it again…tomorrow!

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To Fort William and back again, part 1: driving north

Aug 28th, 2024
It has been a hectic few weeks at work, which has meant I have not had time to devote to anything but getting through the day. But the busy time is unlikely to pass, and so I have to make time to focus on my real love – my blog and pictures, and anything Fort William-focussed. And so, I bring you this account of a drive I will happily do at any time of year, and with any companions: the drive to Fort William.

East Scotland – the Dundee area, Fife, southern Perth and Kinross – is quite similar in terms of geography: rolling hills, plenty of farmland, coastlines, and dotted with regular towns of good size. Not far north of Perth on the A9, though, pine trees close in around the road and the landscape begins to change. More dramatic, jagged hills rise and all at once I relax. A feeling of joy comes over me, and I cannot help but smile, knowing that I am headed north. I cannot really explain why my mood changes. It may be the hills, heading to mountains; it may be the many happy memories I have of locations to the north; it may be just that the stretch of Scotland north of Perth is some of the most beautiful countryside I have ever seen. Whether continuing to Fort William or just planning a day trip, I just love this stretch of road, and beyond.

And so, in this post I’ll take you on the first half of a circular journey to Fort William, a drive I have done many times. Once I managed it all in one day though I would not recommend it.

There is an issue with the A9 – where this drive begins – that must be addressed, and one that I have confidence will remain an issue for years to come despite all efforts of the Scottish government. That issue is that, for the last eight+ years, Transport Scotland has been working on a project to make the entire road from Perth to Inverness dual carriageway. For Americans, this means that there is a strip of land separating the traffic going in opposite directions, like many US highways. As the A9 is the main road north through the Highlands with increasing traffic and plenty of freight, this seems a no-brainer – it is just taking a touch longer than hoped (doing my best not to make a Big Dig comparison). There are also significant engineering challenges to many stretches of the road. This means, more often than not, areas of slower traffic and roadworks can hold you up, but anyone stuck behind a lorry on a stretch of two-lane road will understand the necessity of this work.

Back to the drive.

The road pictured above is where the A9 curves, just before reaching the towns of Dunkeld and Birnam, and the Hermitage woodland walk. All three are worthy of their own posts in time, but generally when driving north we do not stop until a bit further on. The road cuts through a set of hills here, with sheep fields on both sides between patches of trees. The highway runs near the River Tay and parallel to the train line that runs from Perth to Inverness. While the track disappears on occasion, it is not uncommon to spy a train.

The next way marker is the widening of the valley in anticipation of reaching Pitlochry. Pitlochry is a small town that holds a place in my heart as where the other half and I went for our first weekend away together, but also for its quaint touristy feel.

Just past Pitlochry is Killiecrankie, famous location of the Soldier’s Leap, and another great place to stop for a walk. Beyond the turn-off to Loch Tummel and the Queen’s View, the highway starts to rise up and along the side of a hill, and there is a gorgeous view of the mountains and the valley along to the left – it never comes through on pictures, though.

At this point in the drive there is a touch of anticipatory excitement, as I know what is coming. Almost never do we manage to get this far north without stopping at our favourite money trap: the House of Bruar, a high-end shop that sells textiles, outdoor equipment, kitchen accessories, toys, Scottish souvenirs and art of all kinds, and boasts an impressive fine food hall with every type of jam, jelly, cracker, cheese or fine meat that you can imagine. The butcher is fabulous, and the cafe is just as good for a scone or soup, sandwich and snack. Even better is the fantastic walk in the woods behind – again a post for another time, though I have several pictures of the Falls of Bruar in my ‘winter wonderland’ post.

House of Bruar represents another key marker on this drive – a bit less than half way (if you have started in central Scotland), and one of the last places until you reach Fort William that you can easily stop for a restroom break (there are a few other options, but they are not always available).

Beyond Bruar, one really enters the Highlands, with hills on both sides as the A9 follows the River Garry. While it is not always easy to tell, you are climbing at this point, and to the left in particular you can catch glimpses of lochs and glens cutting south. One of my favourites is the Dalnaspidal viewpoint, with a lovely river leading from Loch Garry:

It is not always feasible to stop here, but the next point is a must. At Dalnaspidal you are only a few minutes away from the Pass of Drumochter, the highest point on the A9 and the rail network, and the only gap in the Grampians suitable for road traffic for 100 km. The weather is quite frequently dramatically different here, sometimes raining or snowing when Bruar was sunny and warm. There is a good-sized lay-by, and it boasts one of the happiest signs in Scotland: ‘Welcome to the Highlands’.

There are countless walks that one can take up into the hills here, and I have made it a habit to get out and stretch my legs, particularly if we have not stopped long at Bruar.

Drumochter is only a few miles from the next important milestone: the turn off of the A9. If one has examined a map, one notices that the A9 heads north and then curves east again slightly as it approaches Aviemore. To head west and then a touch south to Fort William, one must take the exit at Dalwhinnie, where there is a small town and a large distillery where they make, surprisingly enough, Dalwhinnie whisky. Tours are available at certain times of year.

The road in fact circles up around the distillery, and it is important to take care here as the lanes are narrow and large lorries and trucks are regular sights. From this point you will by requirement drive a bit slower; from Dalwhinnie north the road is winding and often roller-coaster like as it sinks and rises through the hills. The views are stunning though, back over the valley and town, and to the east where the Cairngorms are stretching out away from the road. To the left is relatively new forest, immediately to the right are fields, usually with sheep, and ahead rises a sharp peak of which I have not yet worked out the name. The road here is actually following the route of General Wade’s Military Road, constructed in the mid-1700s to help bring Scotland to order.

In several miles the road falls away and curves around to the west, with dramatic craggy peaks up to the left. When driving, one must be paying close attention as the route is both narrow and winding; passengers can enjoy the view. There is a touch of relief when you reach a T-junction with the A86. Here one turns left, following signs for Kinloch Laggan, Spean Bridge and Fort William. Note, turning right will eventually take you back to the A9 via Kingussie.

The road now is a touch wider, and in a few miles meets up with the River Pattack. There is a trail and small picnic area so that you can climb up to view Pattack Falls – well worth a stop if you need to stretch your legs or take a break from the roads.

Several miles beyond Pattack, the trees open up for a fraction of a moment to allow you a stunning view down Loch Laggan; I have seldom been able to properly pause here, but if you can find a viewpoint along the loch that is not blocked by trees, it is definitely recommended to stop briefly.

I always manage to confuse myself, thinking we are almost at the Laggan Dam, but in fact it is a solid 12 miles further as it does not sit at the end of the loch as one might expect. Approaching the the dam are more views over the mountains and the waterway down to the left, while to the right is the forest and hillside.

If you have managed the whole stretch from Dalwhinnie without stopping, you will absolutely want to stop at Laggan Dam, both for the view and to stretch your legs – you’re still about 30 minutes or so from Fort William. Directly south, behind the range of hills, is Rannoch Moor, and if you look at a map you will see you have just done a big loop up and around some impenetrable hills.

Constructed in the early 1930s, the dam is part of the Lochaber hydroelectric scheme, designed post-World War I to provide electricity for aluminium production. Now, you are able to stand at the edge of the dam and see the reservoir formed by the River Spean, and also the sharp peaks that form the eastern end of the Nevis Range.

Starting off from Laggan again you are in the home stretch, but also some of the more challenging part of the drive – this portion of the A86 is regularly considered one of the more dangerous roads in Scotland. You will quickly see why; it is winding with sharp bends, narrow turns, and drivers who often go far too fast. In the rain it can be prone to slippage from the steep hill above, and there is an equally steep drop off to the other side, into the gorge of the River Spean. I should say, I have never had any issues here, but I am also on the cautious side here.

It is a beautiful route through a series of towns and villages where there are B&Bs and small hotels abounding. Some of the towns are also served by the rail line from Fort William to Glasgow. We stayed several times in a lovely hotel near Roybridge that provided excellent views up Glen Spean to the Nevis Range, but also showed how winding the road could be. Between Roybridge and Spean Bridge there are a few wide open fields where you can see up to Ben Nevis – the UK’s highest peak – often still snow-capped in April.

Spean Bridge is slightly larger than Roybridge, and there you can find several hotels and a woollen mill that provides refreshments (mostly to bus tours) as well as wide-ranging Scottish souvenirs. As expected, the River Spean passes under the road here, before carving its way through the landscape to join the River Lochy. This is also where the A86 joins the A82, offering an option to turn north towards Inverness or continue west to Fort William.

The drive into Fort William from here includes some spectacular scenery on both sides, with the Nevis Range rising to the left and farm and more mountains to the right. A few miles out from the town, you pass the Nevis Range mountain resort, where you can take the gondola up Aonach Mor.

The approach into Fort William passes some very familiar modern sights such as a large Aldi, M&S Food Hall, KFC, Costa Coffee, and Pound Stretcher. You will also go through the roundabout where the road from Glenfinnan and Mallaig intersects the A82 – believe it or not, I have been stuck at this roundabout in long queues of traffic. One does not often imagine finding a traffic jam in the Highlands!

Nevertheless, I always find myself smiling as whatever vehicle I am in makes its way past the turn off to Ben Nevis, then the many guest houses and B&Bs, and eventually into the town centre of Fort William.

A few items to note if you intend to try this drive:
1. As mentioned above, there are not many places to stop for refreshments or comfort breaks between Dalwhinnie and Spean Bridge, so plan both carefully.
2. Likewise, petrol is scarce between these points, but if you have filled up in Perth you should be able to reach Fort William without any danger of running low – transport depending of course.
3. Roads will be slippery and potentially even closed in poor weather (particularly in the winter). Drive carefully and always check the route on Google Maps or your preferred method before leaving. Roadworks and diversions may pop up without much warning!
4. If you intend to stay in Fort William, make a reservation. It is frequently busy, even when you think it might not be…
I will write soon I am sure about the town of Fort William itself, places to eat and stay, as well as the drive back south again via Glencoe and Rannoch Moor. Until then, I hope some of my pictures have persuaded you to give this journey a go!

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Exploring Scotland on public transport

Jul 20th, 2024
Are you travelling in Scotland but not willing to rent a car? Maybe you’re from overseas, and don’t fancy driving on the other side? Perhaps you’re looking for a more carbon-friendly option?

Fortunately, Scotland has a really robust public transport network and you can see a large part of the country just using busses and trains. I was lucky enough to have experienced excellent public transport where I lived for so much of my life that I didn’t learn to drive until quite late. This means I also became well-acquainted with British public transport and both its pros and cons. I have done several of these trips with family who have more limited mobility, but I have always been there to help with luggage; once you get off of trains and major busses, I would imagine the routes are more challenging if you are not able to carry your own luggage and traverse coach stairs easily.

First, a few tips if you plan to attempt a tour of Scotland using trains and busses:
1. Pack light. Most busses have little to no room for luggage.
2. Have a book or alternative method of entertainment. You will be doing a bit of waiting.
3. Always have a plan B. Most of the time, public transport works pretty well, but aiming for the first or last transport of the day can be a bit risky and sometimes there are last-minute cancellations.
4. Always expect a delay and be pleasantly surprised if there isn’t one. If you’re needing to catch a plane or train at a specific time, give yourself plenty of extra wiggle room.
5. Don’t rely on the internet; depending on how far north you go, you may find that reception drops, so make sure you have a backup payment method as well as the basic timetable.
6. Take a bit of time to get used to the way the timetables look, and how to read them.
A note on cost

I have not estimated or stated cost for any of the journeys below, as they change regularly. You may find the best rates if you purchase online ahead of time, and there may also be group or family rates, as well as rail card discounts. Contactless payment should be available on all transport, and if you wish to pay with cash, be aware that operators will expect the exact change.

The routes

Below you will find a suggestion of some great trips you can take and a rough loop that will cover most of my favourite bits of Scotland. This is only the tip of the iceberg though – Scotland’s transport network allows you to explore even the far reaches of Mull, Skye or the North Coast without once setting foot in a rental car. I’ve popped links to all the major travel websites you may need at the end of this post.

Route 1 – Edinburgh Airport to Edinburgh City Centre

There are two options here: tram or bus. The tram is a nice calm modern choice, as the line is only ten years old – it opened in May 2014. But I actually prefer the bus, particularly the Airlink 100. The route into the city passes through some lovely neighbourhoods, the West End, and kisses the end of Princes Street, providing excellent views of the castle and Princes Street Gardens. It then cuts up to George Street, providing a peek down the side streets towards the water. Definitely sit upstairs if you can.

There are a few bus options with varying prices, but the 100 drops you right at Waverley Bridge, which is a perfect spot from which to explore the rest of the city. If you want to continue exploring by bus, you can pick up a hop-on, hop-off tour of the city from Waverley Bridge, too.

Boarding the airport bus was my favourite part of journeying back to St Andrews after time at home as a student. I was almost always half asleep after an overnight flight, but sitting back to watch the streets of Edinburgh speed by and then the majestic castle rising over Princes Street Gardens rejuvenated me long enough to stay awake for the train ride north.

Route 2 – Edinburgh City Centre to St Andrews

There is a bus that leaves from Edinburgh City Centre (confusingly, from St Andrews Bus Station) and takes you directly to St Andrews (St Andrews Bus Station, Fife), but I recommend the train. You’re looking for a route that stops at Leuchars, which is the local St Andrews station. Any train heading to Dundee or Aberdeen will stop there. If you can, start your journey at Waverley – you’re more likely to get a seat – and sit on the right-hand side of the train. This journey can take anywhere from 60 to 90 minutes depending upon the route and train operator – some trains go almost directly to Leuchars but some will stop at every small village along the way.

Once you pull out of Haymarket station (which often smells faintly of yeast from the local brewery), you start to get some great views of Edinburgh: you’ll pass Murrayfield Stadium and go right past the end of the airport runway, then out across the historic Forth Rail Bridge.

My video of trips across the rail bridge:

From the bridge you can see down the Firth of Forth in either direction, either west towards Stirling or east towards the islands and North Sea.

As you pass into Fife, the train line continues to hug the coast and offers some spectacular views of the beaches, Bass Rock, and Edinburgh itself across the water. Once the train cuts inland, you get a great feel for the farmland and rolling hills of Fife. You will know you are approaching Leuchars if you catch sight of the chimney of Guardbridge Paper Mill (now a biomass plant).

From the station in Leuchars, it’s easy to grab a taxi or one of the very regular busses into St Andrews. In total, the journey should take no longer than 2 hours.

One small warning – phone signal is very patchy along this route, and if you find yourself having to make a phone call or trying to check your email, you may be scuppered. The stretch between Inverkeithing and Kirkcaldy is particularly bad, but the hills of Fife seem to block signal quite effectively no matter where on the line you are.

Route 3 – St Andrews to Elie

Several years back I happily discovered this route while exploring with my father. We hoped to walk some of the Fife Coastal Path, but were without a car.

The Stagecoach 95 route runs from St Andrews to Leven and passes through all of the charming wee towns of the East Neuk, which is the area of Fife south of St Andrews. The 95 stops in Kingsbarns, Crail, Anstruther, St Monans, and eventually cuts inland at Elie to pass through Kilconquhar and Colinsburgh.

credit for this map goes entirely to Scotland Magazine

If you can, get on at St Andrews and go up to the top level – this bus is almost always a double-decker. The views are awesome, and it’s a great way to see Fife. If you tend towards travel sickness, however, be careful up there – the road is narrow and quite winding, while the bus drivers seldom slow for the corners.

You can hop on and hop off using a North-East Fife dayrider ticket, or even get off and walk along the Fife Coastal Path to the next town, as we did (Elie to St Monans, for the record). Just keep an eye on the timetable, as the bus only runs about once an hour.

All of these villages will have places for you to get refreshments, often a charming little pub or chippy. Anstruther is famous for having award-winning Fish and Chips!

The whole route from St Andrews to Leven is about 90 minutes.

Route 4 – St Andrews (or Edinburgh) to Inverness

There is no direct train from Leuchars or Dundee to Inverness, and so my recommendation for this next leg is – if starting from St Andrews – that you take the 99 bus to Dundee Rail Station (it stops there immediately after crossing the bridge). From Dundee you get a train to Perth, where you switch to the Inverness train. If you can, book in advance and make sure you have a seat reserved on that train, which is often busy. These trains come from Edinburgh, so you can also get on there if you prefer to spend more time in the city.

The train from Perth to Inverness stops in some fantastic places such as Dunkeld, Pitlochry, Blair Atholl, and Aviemore. There are stunning views as the train passes through the forests of Perthshire and then the Highlands; my favourite spot is the Drumochter Pass, which is the highest point in the pass between the north and south. Often the weather is very different here than only a few miles in each direction, with snow common in the winter.

As the train winds down out of the mountains you start to see villages and then the town of Inverness.

The journey from Perth to Inverness is just over two hours.

Route 5 – Inverness to Culloden Battlefield

Inverness is a lovely little city to walk around, with paths along the river and over bridges, and of course it has its own castle. It is a popular destination for coach trips and tours, partly for its size and the plentiful hospitality options, but partly for its proximity to one of the most famous battlefields in the UK, if not beyond: Culloden.

Whether you are a Scottish history fiend, a military history fan, a fan of Outlander, a Scot, someone descended from Scots, or someone who is looking for the most popular spots to visit in Scotland, you will have come across Culloden. It is of course the famous field where, in April 1746, Bonnie Prince Charlie and his Jacobites lost their fight against the forces of King George II, and where many Highland clansmen lost their lives. A major turning point in Scottish history, Culloden marked the beginning of the end for Highland culture, and the battlefield site has been preserved well. The visitor centre has some fascinating displays that immerse you in the battle, and provides a solid historical understanding. The battlefield itself is incredibly moving, with stone cairns marking the burial places of the clans.

Fortunately, Culloden is easily accessible via bus from Inverness city centre. Absolutely a must-visit, and only about 20 minutes away.

Route 6 – Inverness to Fort William

Before I go too far in describing this route, one small caveat – I have never actually done it by bus. But, I know it can be done by hopping on a Citylink bus at Inverness bus station – sit on the left if you want the best views for the first half of the journey. The route follows the Great Glen down Loch Ness, Loch Oich, Loch Lochy, and then through Spean Bridge to Fort William. This alone is a spectacular route, but the Citylink stops along the way at several points that may be of interest to you, if you have time.

The first is Urquhart Castle, which is one of the most picturesque castles in Scotland and a perfect place to look out for Nessie.

The next is Fort Augustus, the town at the far end of Loch Ness from Inverness, where you can grab lunch and watch ships navigating the locks of the Caledonian Canal.

After Fort Augustus, the bus will continue to Invergarry and eventually cross to the other side of the glen to hug the coast of Loch Lochy. Here the A82 lifts away from the water and climbs over the rise on which the Commando Memorial stands – you may just catch sight of it before the road drops again into the town of Spean Bridge.

There are a few hotels and B&Bs here which are sometimes a bit less pricey that Fort William, though you are still 20 minutes away. The road between here and Fort William is quite pretty, with the Nevis Range ahead and rolling hills off to the right.

The whole route takes about two hours if you do not get off at all, and runs relatively regularly – hourly during the summer though less often in colder months.

River Spean at Spean Bridge

Route 7 – Fort William to Nevis Range

Fort William has plenty to keep you busy with hikes of all different lengths from a short wander to climbing Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest peak.

If you are less inclined to hiking, I would definitely recommend trying one of the Loch Linnhe Seal Cruises, which you can book ahead even if it is just the day before. There is also a small cinema, plenty of pubs and restaurants to explore, and numerous places to stay. That said, definitely book your accommodation well in advance, as Fort William is almost always busy.

Fort William and Loch Linnhe from the Old Fort

Another fantastic option for the Fort William area is to take a bus out to Nevis Range, where you can find more walks in the woods and the gondola up Aonach Mor. The gondola can be taken by those of all abilities and ages, and at the top you can enjoy the cafe or walk along the side of the mountain to two viewpoints: Meall Beag and Sgurr Finnisg-aig. The gondola ride alone is worth trying, even if you do not wish to hike.

The way to get to Nevis Range is to pick up a Shiel bus from one of the bus stops just outside Morrisons, on MacFarlane way. As of writing it is the N41 route you want, and it runs frequently enough that you can get out and back in a day. But, as always, keep a close eye on the timetables. The route is only about 20 minutes.

Should you miss the return bus, you may need to order a taxi, and those can take some time – I’d recommend making note of a local taxi number, as Uber has not yet reached Fort William.

Route 8 – Fort William to Glasgow

If the train route from Glasgow to Fort William does not make it on to some list of one of the world’s most beautiful, someone goofed. Whether you are boarding in Glasgow, Fort William, or one of the several stops in between, I do recommend booking in advance if you can, and selecting a seat. I cannot really recommend a side of the train though – both offer stunning views.

If you are travelling the whole distance, you may want to bring your own snacks and refreshments, as the train trolley can be pricey. The trip is about 4 hours, but delays around Crianlarich are not uncommon, so it is best to be prepared for a longer ride.

Any delay is 100% worth it, though. For one thing, it often allows you a few minutes to get out of the train and walk around on the platform, and get some fresh air. It is also just a fact – you will be stopped in Crianlarich for a short while even without delays, as that is where they split the train (or join it together again), with one half going to Oban and the other to Fort William. This is another good reason to book your ticket – it guarantees you are sitting in the correct part of the train.

If you board in Fort William, you will find that the train passes out of the town almost immediately and follows the River Spean through the towns of Roybridge and Spean Bridge. The line hugs the side of a gorge and then at Tulloch cuts south to head across Rannoch Moor.

The moor is a stretch of land composed of bogs, lochs, rivers and rocky soil that is one of the last great wildernesses in Europe. The train offers a unique opportunity to see it, as the only other way to experience this part of the Moor is on foot – the roads go around in either direction. Corrour Station, one of the stops in the middle of the Moor, is more than 10 miles from the nearest road. The train runs just frequently enough that you could take a train in the morning, have a hike, and then catch one of the trains back again to Fort William, but be warned – as mentioned above, trains on this line are not 100% reliable and accommodation is very limited.

Barren, rocky, boggy, and breathtaking, the Moor alone is – in my opinion – worth the train trip. You may even catch sight of a deer or other Highland fauna.

Once across the Moor, the train line cuts through mountains and valleys, eventually re-discovering the A82 highway not far north of Tyndrum. Just beyond Tyndrum, the train line loops west to cross the viaduct seen in the picture above, hugging the hills as it heads south.

After stopping at Crianlarich, the line touches the north shores of Loch Lomond before cutting over to Loch Long at Arrochar and Tarbet. From there, beautiful views down the loch and of the distant mountains will keep you glued to the windows all the way to Helensburgh, only a few minutes from Glasgow.

If you take the train in reverse, the scenery becomes more stunning the further north you travel, and I always find it a touch disappointing when you finally reach Fort William. Once we did continue on the line all the way to Mallaig, and while doing so will give you a good feel for the barren nature of the coastal Highlands, nothing is quite like crossing the Moor.

Give yourself most of the day for this journey of at least four hours, and cross your fingers for a rain-free trip. I have never yet had one, but rain makes the pictures more genuine!

Travel from Glasgow back to Edinburgh is incredibly easy, with regular trains and busses from Buchanan and Queen Street stations.

Other options:

The loop I have suggested above is just one of the many options available to you. Want to try a truly epic journey? Citylink offers busses from Glasgow to Uig on Skye. It’s a long trek but crosses some stunning scenery, and Skye can be explored on foot if you’re ready for it.

Here are a few more suggestions:
- Hop on the train from Fort William to Glenfinnan, crossing the famous viaduct. There is a hike from the train station back towards the parking lot with spectacular views over Loch Shiel and the viaduct itself.
- Take the train from Dundee to Aberdeen, along the stunning coastline.
- Take a bus or train to Stirling and walk up to the castle and old town.
- Take a bus to Doune and explore the castle and town.
- Hop a bus from Glenrothes to Falkland and visit the Palace and Gardens, or climb up East Lomond Hill.
- Board a bus in Aberdeen to take you to Crathes and Drum castles.
For a truly epic journey, you can take a train or bus to Oban, a ferry to Mull, another bus from Craignure to Fionnphort, and a ferry to Iona! Lots of coordination required, but entirely possible.

The bottom line is, busses go almost anywhere you want. Be aware of travelling on Sundays as things are always less flexible, and make sure you have the most up to date timetables.

Here are some useful links to help you plan your adventure:

Stagecoach (busses throughout the UK): www.stagecoachbus.com/

Trainline (trains throughout the UK): www.thetrainline.com/

Traveline, which is helpful for planning more complex trips: www.traveline.info/

Citylink busses between larger cities: www.citylink.co.uk/

Shiel busses for the Highlands: www.shielbuses.co.uk/timetables-and-fares

Edinburgh Airport transport links: www.edinburghairport.com/transport-links/buses-and-coaches/edinburgh-city-bus-links

Caledonian MacBrayne ferries: www.calmac.co.uk/summer-timetables

Questions? Drop a comment below or reach out by email!
Nevis Gorge and Steall Falls walk

Sep 2nd, 2023

I first came upon this walk while perusing my well-used Pathfinder guide to Fort William and Glen Coe, and was immediately sold by the phrase, ‘one of the country’s most scenic waterfalls’. While the book also describes the path as ‘short and easy’, we soon discovered that while the waterfall description was accurate – and this walk remains one of the most stunning I have taken in the Highlands – the ‘easy’ part was less so.

While not particularly long in the first instance, the path does take one up and down some steep sections that are rocky and not suitable for anyone without a touch of fitness. Once through the gorge, the path is comparatively easy and comfortable. But, I am forever reminded of the August 2021 occasion on which I saw numerous walkers, drawn by the promise of a waterfall, attempting the hike in flipflops, some even with crutches and canes. Unfortunately, I imagine most of them were not able to continue to the best viewpoints.

But I get ahead of myself. Our first challenge, as is often the case in more obscure walks, was to find the car park mentioned in the book. Starting in Fort William, one follows the signs for Glen Nevis and indeed for Ben Nevis itself, as the drive takes you past the most common starting point for hikers attempting the highest peak in the UK. Glen Nevis itself is stunning, and it is almost impossible not to stop a few times along the way.

Gradually the road narrows and passes a number of burns and wayerfalls, and on our first trip we thought we had found the car park when we reached the Lower Falls.

After a few more moments with the map though, we determined that we still had a way to go, and indeed the start of the Nevis Gorge walk, the Upper Glen Nevis Car Park, is another 1.6 miles along the single-track road. Once there, it is clear that it is the end of travel for vehicles. There is a good-sized car park, though when we visited in 2021 it had filled up completely by mid-morning. This may have been anomalous due to the higher than normal number of visitors that summer, but I have a feeling it is quite standard.

There are lovely views even from the car park, and I could not resist snapping a pic of the warning sign to send to the family – once we had returned safely of course.

While initially we paid less attention to the warning, by the time we had climbed a bit further and discovered the steeper areas of the trail, we realised how easy it would be to slip into the gorge – especially when mesmerised by the view.

The path starts out quite innocuously through a lovely stand of birch, with some small streams and impressive glimpses through the trees up the hillside and down into the valley where you can hear – if not always see – the Water of Nevis. Before long, though, the trail runs into the side of the hill and begins to curve around to the right, at the same time that it starts to gain height. It narrows and becomes a bit more difficult to traverse, as it is clear that hikers are moving up and through the gorge. Warnings notwithstanding, it is impossible not to stop at a few points to enjoy the view over the glen – below you will see an early spring and late summer version of the view.

After a few sets of rocky stairs, the trail curves back around to the left and you know you are headed through the gorge. The rushing water below becomes more turbulent as it passes through the narrow gap, and while it is far enough below that you cannot often see it, the rock faces are sheer and carved by thousands of years of water.

The trail eventually passes through to the other side of the gorge, and before you opens up a beautiful flat valley where the Water of Nevis cuts through the hills. Grassy flat land is dotted with stands of trees and rocks, and in the distance you can just see Steall Falls.

From here, the trail follows the curve of the valley, crossing some small streams and boggy ground; in March when we visited, it was absolutely full of frogs and frogspawn, glistening in the sun.

From this point you can continue along the valley up the back of Ben Nevis and eventually reach Spean Bridge or, if incredibly adventurous, the edges of Rannoch Moor. Or, if you are feeling adventurous in a different fashion, you can cross the river to approach the falls directly, though the trail is not as well-marked as one might hope (or wasn’t in the days just after the pandemic). On our first visit, the other half and I chose to just walk up the valley and find a spot on the riverbank for lunch. Dad on the other hand chose to cross the river. Not, as I did, on the rocks just poking above the surface that I crossed dry – unlike the hikers ahead of me – but instead on the wire bridge that spans the river. By wire bridge, I mean literally three heavy wires, one for your feet and two for your arms, which requires both height and upper body strength I do not have – I could not even reach the starting point. While at first the bridge is not far off the ground, by the time it stretches out over the water, it is high enough that one can imagine a fall into the shallow river would not be without injury. After a few uncertain moments at the start, Dad managed it quite well, and then waited on the other side while I plotted my route.

Once safely across, we hiked up towards the falls and I experienced the true viciousness of midges in the Highlands – fortunately I had spray, but the closer I got to the falls, the more swarmed around me, getting caught in my hair and the spray on my arms. While they did not bite through the spray, I ended up looking more freckly than normal and they went out of their way to aim for ears, nose and eyes. I managed to pause long enough for a few pictures of the falls and the view from the rocks, but the bugs were intense enough to encourage us to keep moving.

The falls are well worth the exploration – they are the second-highest falls in the UK, with a single drop of 120 metres (390 feet), and there are plenty of places for brave walkers to cross and climb up for a better view.

Dad and I tried to continue walking along the valley but found the path to essentially disappear into bog, so we headed back towards the wire bridge, looking for a place to cross. In the end, tired feet won out and I stripped off my boots to plunge into the icy water. It felt amazing and almost immediately numbed my toes to the rocks as I managed to just get across without falling. As we waited for our feet to dry, we sat on the riverbank and enjoyed the stunning view back towards the gorge.

The return trip is a touch less gruelling as it is more downhill than up, but the views are no less stunning and there is a great deal of truth in the fact that down becomes harder as one’s knees get older.

By the time we returned to the car I was very ready to take off my sturdy hiking boots and find some looser shoes to don for the drive back down the glen. I recall sitting in the car for a few moments just enjoying the car park view before finally heading back into town.

From here, Dad and I went on to the Commando Memorial, but even after our hikes on Ben Nevis and beyond, this remains one of the most stunning and magical trails I have found. The tranquillity of the valley around the Water of Nevis is breath-taking, and so quintessentially Scotland that it really should not be missed. That said, it is not a trek to take on lightly or unprepared; water, a snack, and sturdy shoes are an absolute must! And, if you are going in the summer, a strong midge repellent.
Loch Linnhe Seal Cruise, Fort William

Aug 21st, 2023

As anyone who has read my two posts on the Nevis Range may have guessed, Fort William – and the surrounding Lochaber – is one of my favourite places in Scotland. One of my favourite features of Lochaber is the way in which the mountains and hills sweep down right to the lochs and sea, creating spectacular vistas that are so typical of the Highlands. It is such a different feel from the east coast, where we have cliffs and beaches, and of course the east coast of the US which tends to be much flatter, except perhaps up in the far north of Maine.

One of the best ways to truly appreciate and experience the views is, as we discovered, to explore the loch with Cruise Loch Linnhe, a tour company that runs a series of cruises from Fort William. They offer evening cruises and even private charters, but also the cruise I have now taken twice: the ‘seal’ cruise, which covers a good portion of the loch and allows one to see not just seals but heron, swans, dolphins, and many other kinds of wildlife.

The first time I took the cruise was with Mum in May of last year, and we were not at all lucky when it came to the weather – it poured rain almost the entire time we were on the boat, and we saw only one seal, its head just poking out of the water. Below are the two pictures from May – the night before the cruise, with the rain clouds closing in, and the only seal we saw.

Rain notwithstanding, it was a very nice cruise; the boat is comfortable with plenty of amenities including hot tea and coffee, snacks, and even a whisky or two if you’re interested. I stood just outside the door for a while and tried to get some pictures of the view, but the ones later in the year were so much better I have not bothered to post them here. As I experienced later on, the skippers on these cruises are very experienced and offer a running commentary of information about the area surrounding the loch as well as the wildlife, so it is a good lesson in all things Scottish! My father has always had an interest in boats, and so I determinedly re-booked for later in the summer when he was visiting, and on the second attempt I was rewarded with a much clearer trip.

The boat leaves from just next to the Crannog Restaurant, not far from the large car park in Fort William. I insisted upon being first in the queue – or almost first – to board so that I could get the seat I wanted, right at the back of the boat where no one could block my view.

At first, the route of the cruise takes you right away from the quay, roughly north towards Caol, a village almost immediately outside Fort William. Right away you are rewarded with views back towards the town and Ben Nevis, if it is clear; from there the cruise passes Caol and the locks at the start of the Caledonian Canal, as well as the Old Boat of Caol, a shipwrecked fishing boat.

The cruise goes north and west a bit to pass the timber yards which I learned are some of the largest in Europe; it was also on this cruise that I learned that most of the timber grown in Scotland is not high enough quality to use for building, because it grows too fast. So, it is turned into biomass pellets, while the good building timber is shipped in from Scandinavia, where the cold forces the trees to grow more slowly.

Gradually the boat circles back towards the wider loch, passing some lovely homes on one side, and bird-covered small islands on the other – the clouds started to clear slightly so I was able to see the start of Glen Nevis.

From here, the cruise hugs the west side of the loch across from Fort William, where there is a series of small farms – including one with alpaca – as well as salmon and mussel fisheries. Side note, it was during a trip to Fort William that I had some of the best mussels of my life, and this is from a New England girl!

I became fascinated by the way the hills are split by crevices in which streams must flow downhill, and eventually meet the loch – very dramatic. We also learned a great deal about the ecological problems with salmon farming, and the impact it was having on the loch (this article linked here is very staunchly anti-farms, but then after hearing the skipper talk, so was I).

As we headed south, the boat moved more into the middle of the loch, allowing for stunning views westward along the glens and mountains that are sparsely-populated and quite difficult to access without the use of the Corran ferry.

Then we circled around towards the other side of the loch, passing a small pod of dolphins – this was the only clear picture I got – and heading towards the tidal rock where the seals rest – the pièce de résistance.

We were given very strict and serious instruction about how to behave. Clearly incredibly experienced, the skipper lectured us on remaining quiet and still, as if we scared a young seal pup it might get lost and end up separated from its mother permanently. With the horror of potentially causing young seals to suffer fresh in our minds, the whole boat full of people prepared with cameras at the ready and children sufficiently chastised. The skipper turned the motor down and allowed the current to push us closer and closer, circling the seal rock.

Even if I had been allowed to speak I do not think I could have – it was positively breath-taking to be so close and see the faces of the animals as they watched us pass by. I took more than 200 photos but here are the best – there were smiles, frowns, and general showing off by the amazing array of common and Atlantic grey seals.

The hush that had fallen over the boat remained as the skipper slowly moved us away, back north towards Fort William, and I managed few more spectacular views of the seal rock and the loch behind it.

After this kind of experience, it was a bit of a let-down to return to dry land. But, it made me that much more determined to try the cruise again with Mum the next time she is here, and to go with the other half some time as it really is a spectacular way to see the loch. There are currently plans to go again in a few weeks, and I am looking forward to another exciting trip. Finally, here is the view from the back of the boat as we headed south – Ben Nevis is just topped with cloud on the right:
Glenfinnan Viaduct trail

Aug 5th, 2023

Whether you are a lover of Harry Potter, Jacobite history, or Scottish hills and lochs, this trail that starts off under the famous Glenfinnan viaduct and skirts the edge of the hills to come down alongside Loch Shiel is not to be missed. Even on a dreary rainy day, the stunning viaduct cutting across the valley is atmospheric and impressive, while in the sun and awaiting the famous Jacobite Steam Train, it is breath-taking.

My most memorable visit to Glenfinnan came last summer, when my father and I were spending a few nights in Fort William and I managed to convince him that this walk would have good views. We honestly did not even check the train schedule before leaving, but managed to arrive at the parking lot about twenty minutes before a train was due. We joined in the masses of people excitedly scurrying up the hillside – many very unprepared for such a climb – to get a good view of the famous train.

But I get ahead of myself – firstly, I should point out that the size of the car park here has expanded significantly since my first visit in 2017 and now is no longer free (£3.50 as of writing except for National Trust members). There is a substantial gift shop and café, catering to the bus-loads of tourists who stop here on their way to Mallaig. There are also two viewpoints; one, which we took in the pouring rain in 2017, is much shorter but provides a good view both over the viaduct and the Glenfinnan Monument and Loch Shiel. This is a good option if you are in a hurry.

The period of the Jacobite Rebellion is a touch too modern for my tastes – it is all relative – but one can hardly study Scottish History and live in this country without picking up pieces of the story. It has echoes of the American Revolutionary War tales you hear everywhere in the Boston area – hearty, brave rebels fighting against the evil English. The truth of the history is, as always, much less black and white, but that is not the purpose of this post.

The Monument itself – a viewpoint and tourist attraction long before the viaduct appeared in Harry Potter – marks the location where Prince Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) first raised his standard in 1745. It was the start of the doomed eight-month campaign that would come to a catastrophic end on Culloden Moor in April 1746, so one can understand why this area would hold a special place in Scottish history. The scenery is certainly evocative, with deep valleys cutting through rugged mountains that plummet straight down into the loch.

The second viewpoint is harder to access but also falls along the viaduct trail. Once parked, visitors can follow a well-kept path, skirting the edge of a burn, and moving slowly closer to and eventually under the massive viaduct. It was built between 1897 and 1901, to complete the extension of the West Highland Railway from Fort William to Mallaig. Side note, Mum and I rode this train some years back, but crossing the viaduct on the train is nowhere near as fun as walking beneath.

On the day Dad and I climbed, I quickly realised a train must be due, as I had never seen so many people crowded on the side of a hill in the Highlands before. The path is quite steep in places as it climbs the side of the hill, and I was impressed by the number of determined tourists in sandals, dragging young children behind them.

I convinced Dad to stop and wait, and sure enough, about ten minutes later, we could hear the distant train whistle, while the excitement in the crowd became palpable – and noisy. The first sign of the train was the steam, then it came creeping around the corner, blowing its whistle. The view was second to none, really, and I managed both still pictures and a bit of video, which I will post at the end. Frustratingly I missed the small child sitting on his father’s shoulders shouting out, “Avada Kedavra!” at the train. Not sure if the excitement got the better of him and he mixed up his spells, or if he is just a very dark child…

In any case, as the train moved on we moved against the foot traffic, further up the hill and following the path around the corner. For the most part the trail continues along the hillside with a few ups and downs, but with excellent views back to the viaduct, down to the Monument, and along Loch Shiel. It was a relatively busy path and narrow in places, forcing us to move to the side into the heather and ferns at the side of the path; I found myself grumbling slightly about proper hiking etiquette – or even just general courtesy – but only after being poked by some thistles as I allowed a large group of foreign tourists to pass.

There are several more truly impressive viewpoints before the trail turns left and starts descending into the trees and back towards the loch shore. After a relatively short time, the path reaches Glenfinnan Station where there is a Museum and, as we learned, an option to purchase ice cream, at least in the summer. We took a short rest on the benches, enjoying the atmosphere of the station, before continuing on our way.

From here, most of the walk is on quiet roads, but there are a few excellent points to view the loch before one finally returns to the Monument and gift shop. I recall stopping in for a coffee and a truly excellent piece of millionaire’s shortbread before getting back into the car. It is worth observing that the times of the trains crossing the viaduct are posted both in the car park and online, so if this is the goal for your trip, it is well worth checking and positioning yourself in a good spot. I was lucky to visit on a spectacular sunny day as well as in the rain, and even without a particular affinity for Harry Potter or Jacobites, I found it a rewarding and even moving place to visit. If at all possible, though, avoid the height of summer unless you enjoy fighting your way through crowds of tourists woefully unprepared for a climb.
Nevis Range part 2 – Meall Beag viewpoint

Jul 13th, 2023

During our recent Sunday walk (definitely another post soon to come), we climbed a hill from which we could see the edge of the Highlands. As we caught our breath and tried to work out which jagged distant hill was which, I felt this visceral need to go there again, to see the mountains up close.

Ever since my first trip north of Perth, I have found the Highlands to be calming, comforting, peaceful – perhaps because they remind me of the White Mountains, or perhaps just because they do have a power over some people – me included. The Meall Beag viewpoint is one of those places in the Highlands where I can find my equilibrium.

For some reason it took us until our second trip up the gondola to try the second, longer hike to the second viewpoint. I feel that referring to it in any way as ‘long’ is a bit misleading – the whole walk, out and back, is an hour at most and I think Dad and I did it faster. There are a few hilly bits but nothing overly strenuous, and the views are even better than from Sgurr Finnisg-aig. In fact, I realised on my second visit, that this viewpoint qualifies as one of my favourite places in Scotland, if not the world. From the benches or rocks, you can see west and a bit south to Fort William and Lochs Linnhe and Eil, east towards Spean Bridge, but you have a spectacular view of the back of Ben Nevis, all swept rocks and snow.

The trail begins as you leave the Snowgoose Café at the top of the gondola and turn right along a wide path, heading towards the chair lift that takes skiers to the top of the mountain.

Eventually, it passes under the lift and continues along the side of hill, rising and falling and crossing over a number of small burns. Eventually, you can turn and look back at the café and gondola in the distance.

Here is the view back to the Sgurr Finnisg-aig viewpoint, as well as a little friend we found in the snow. As you move further around the hill, you get a better view down into the valley, and start to see the lochs and Fort William more clearly.

I find the peaty water tumbling through the heather and boggy land to be fascinating and beautiful, but nothing is as impressive as the view from the end of the walk. Like at the other viewpoint, there is a guide showing you what you are looking at, and there are series of both benches and rocks to perch on as you enjoy the vista. I could quite happily sit for hours, I think, watching the clouds (if there are any) and taking in the awesome sights of the view down and also back up the valley and to the sweeping height of Ben Nevis.

In both height of summer and snowy seasons, the view is just breath-taking, and I always have to force myself to turn around and start making my way back. Much like the let-down I always feel as the A9 passes Perth and Fife opens up in front of me – meaning I know I have really left the Highlands behind – I find the trek back to the café to be less enjoyable than the way out. But, once back at the Snowgoose, the best option I find is to get a coffee and maybe a snack, and if you are lucky, a table outside to take advantage of being high up the mountain for just that much longer.

I cannot wait for my next trip!
Nevis Range part 1 – Sgurr Finnisg-aig viewpoint

Jul 3rd, 2023

On a list of my favourite places in the world, the views from the lodge and surrounding areas on Nevis Range are pretty close to, if not, the top. Whether in the depths of summer or the end of winter, in sun or rainy weather, the gondola trip itself is worth the cost and the walks at the top offer simply stunning views. It is worth clarifying at this point that the gondola does not actually climb Ben Nevis, but instead Aonach Mòr, one of several mountains in the Nevis Range that is popular with skiers.

We discovered the Nevis Range on our first adventure to the Highlands in 2016, when we arrived at our hotel too early to check in and decided to take advantage of the spectacular weather to explore a bit. I was a bit nervous about the gondola – I am not a fan of heights – but it is entirely closed in and very seldom so high off the ground that you imagine desperate scenarios reminiscent of James Bond films.

The windows of the gondola don’t allow for particularly clear pictures, but here is the view up, not far from the café at the top.

Both ends of the journey offer a place to stop for a snack or lunch, clean restrooms, and easy access to the cars – I believe that wheelchair access possible, though not 100% certain.

While at some times of year, the view is enjoyed primarily by skiers, by mid-March when we visited, most of the snow was gone but the mountain bikers had not yet taken over, so we had plenty of space to ourselves. A word briefly about the lodge at the top of the gondola, and the Snowgoose Restaurant within – I have been repeatedly impressed by its comfort and good food. The snacks and coffee are great, and there is ice cream or bottles of water aplenty, depending on your need. Best of all, the view is just out of this world.

From the lodge, there are two available walks, each to a different viewpoint. The Meall Beag viewpoint is a bit further away, so on our first trip we opted for the Sgurr Finnisg-aig trail, which is reached by turning left out of the lodge. It is a short walk, about fifteen to twenty minutes to the viewpoint, and the trail is well-kept.

The start of the walk boasts views out to the east, and as you will see below, on the second time I took this walk with my father, you could see clouds rising in the distance. Our first visit was in mid-March, so snow was still evident on some peaks, but the cloudy visit was in late August – much greener and definitely no snow.

The trail is relatively even and easy-going until you get closer to the hill itself, and then you are faced with stairs. These wind and climb, at times a touch narrow, but there are plenty of places to pause and catch your breath or allow people to pass.

And there is no question, the climb is worth it. At the top is a rocky plateau of sorts, where there is a map to show you what you are looking at, as well as numerous spots to take advantage of the view. Standing at the map provided, one can see to the west and the edge of Fort William, Loch Linnhe and Loch Eil, to the east towards Roybridge, and north to the start of the Great Glen that leads up to Inverness. As noted above, these photos were taken on two separate trips, as is evident. In March, we were blessed with incredibly clear weather, while in August, clouds were closing in around us as we walked and by the time we returned to the café, rain had arrived.

On both occasions I followed this trail, I found myself equally distracted on the walk back by the spots of heather, the small burns, and the rock shapes poking through the grass. It is iconic Scottish mountaintop, and the gondola has made it accessible for many people who may not normally be able to enjoy it. My most recent trip up the mountain was actually in summer 2021, when masks were required in the gondola and travel restrictions meant that the tourists around us were all British rather that foreign. The outdoor nature of the trip made it ideal for Covid times, and the relative freedom after more than a year of various lockdowns was palpable.

One of the most pleasant parts of any visit to Nevis Range is once you have completed your walk, when you find yourself a table in the café with a coffee, a cake, or some lunch, and just enjoy the view. On the cloudier trip, I found myself fascinated with the way the clouds were swirling around the gondolas as they disappeared in the mist – though the ride down was without a view, as the video below shows. So whether a perfectly clear day or one where rain is imminent, I would most definitely recommend this trip and short walk. One caveat is that when there is high wind forecast, the gondola may not run for obvious safety reasons – on one trip we missed out and enjoyed the walks at the foot of the mountain instead.

I have done the Meall Beag viewpoint walk as well, but there are too many pictures for one post!