Whether you are a lover of Harry Potter, Jacobite history, or Scottish hills and lochs, this trail that starts off under the famous Glenfinnan viaduct and skirts the edge of the hills to come down alongside Loch Shiel is not to be missed. Even on a dreary rainy day, the stunning viaduct cutting across the valley is atmospheric and impressive, while in the sun and awaiting the famous Jacobite Steam Train, it is breath-taking.
My most memorable visit to Glenfinnan came last summer, when my father and I were spending a few nights in Fort William and I managed to convince him that this walk would have good views. We honestly did not even check the train schedule before leaving, but managed to arrive at the parking lot about twenty minutes before a train was due. We joined in the masses of people excitedly scurrying up the hillside – many very unprepared for such a climb – to get a good view of the famous train.
But I get ahead of myself – firstly, I should point out that the size of the car park here has expanded significantly since my first visit in 2017 and now is no longer free (£3.50 as of writing except for National Trust members). There is a substantial gift shop and café, catering to the bus-loads of tourists who stop here on their way to Mallaig. There are also two viewpoints; one, which we took in the pouring rain in 2017, is much shorter but provides a good view both over the viaduct and the Glenfinnan Monument and Loch Shiel. This is a good option if you are in a hurry.
The period of the Jacobite Rebellion is a touch too modern for my tastes – it is all relative – but one can hardly study Scottish History and live in this country without picking up pieces of the story. It has echoes of the American Revolutionary War tales you hear everywhere in the Boston area – hearty, brave rebels fighting against the evil English. The truth of the history is, as always, much less black and white, but that is not the purpose of this post.
The Monument itself – a viewpoint and tourist attraction long before the viaduct appeared in Harry Potter – marks the location where Prince Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) first raised his standard in 1745. It was the start of the doomed eight-month campaign that would come to a catastrophic end on Culloden Moor in April 1746, so one can understand why this area would hold a special place in Scottish history. The scenery is certainly evocative, with deep valleys cutting through rugged mountains that plummet straight down into the loch.
The second viewpoint is harder to access but also falls along the viaduct trail. Once parked, visitors can follow a well-kept path, skirting the edge of a burn, and moving slowly closer to and eventually under the massive viaduct. It was built between 1897 and 1901, to complete the extension of the West Highland Railway from Fort William to Mallaig. Side note, Mum and I rode this train some years back, but crossing the viaduct on the train is nowhere near as fun as walking beneath.
On the day Dad and I climbed, I quickly realised a train must be due, as I had never seen so many people crowded on the side of a hill in the Highlands before. The path is quite steep in places as it climbs the side of the hill, and I was impressed by the number of determined tourists in sandals, dragging young children behind them.
I convinced Dad to stop and wait, and sure enough, about ten minutes later, we could hear the distant train whistle, while the excitement in the crowd became palpable – and noisy. The first sign of the train was the steam, then it came creeping around the corner, blowing its whistle. The view was second to none, really, and I managed both still pictures and a bit of video, which I will post at the end. Frustratingly I missed the small child sitting on his father’s shoulders shouting out, “Avada Kedavra!” at the train. Not sure if the excitement got the better of him and he mixed up his spells, or if he is just a very dark child…
In any case, as the train moved on we moved against the foot traffic, further up the hill and following the path around the corner. For the most part the trail continues along the hillside with a few ups and downs, but with excellent views back to the viaduct, down to the Monument, and along Loch Shiel. It was a relatively busy path and narrow in places, forcing us to move to the side into the heather and ferns at the side of the path; I found myself grumbling slightly about proper hiking etiquette – or even just general courtesy – but only after being poked by some thistles as I allowed a large group of foreign tourists to pass.
There are several more truly impressive viewpoints before the trail turns left and starts descending into the trees and back towards the loch shore. After a relatively short time, the path reaches Glenfinnan Station where there is a Museum and, as we learned, an option to purchase ice cream, at least in the summer. We took a short rest on the benches, enjoying the atmosphere of the station, before continuing on our way.
From here, most of the walk is on quiet roads, but there are a few excellent points to view the loch before one finally returns to the Monument and gift shop. I recall stopping in for a coffee and a truly excellent piece of millionaire’s shortbread before getting back into the car. It is worth observing that the times of the trains crossing the viaduct are posted both in the car park and online, so if this is the goal for your trip, it is well worth checking and positioning yourself in a good spot. I was lucky to visit on a spectacular sunny day as well as in the rain, and even without a particular affinity for Harry Potter or Jacobites, I found it a rewarding and even moving place to visit. If at all possible, though, avoid the height of summer unless you enjoy fighting your way through crowds of tourists woefully unprepared for a climb.
The Wandering Medievalist 