Dean Village is one of those amazing spots I have seen pictures of for years but never managed to visit as – despite it being so close – I do not spend as much time in Edinburgh as I would like. In March, though, I spent two nights there on my own and decided that it was time to finally explore this beautiful corner of the city. It most definitely belongs on a list of tourist attractions that does not disappoint.
I was staying in the Grassmarket and decided, rather than climbing up and over the Royal Mile, to circle around Edinburgh Castle on King Stables Road. From there I was surprised by how quick and easy it was to cross Princes Street and walk the perhaps five minutes along to the Dean Bridge and the views over Dean Gorge. The walk passed through some lovely parts of the West End, and I am always reminded how much I enjoy walking around Edinburgh.
The first time I became aware of the spectacular view from Dean Bridge was while riding a Fife to Edinburgh Stagecoach bus, probably twenty years ago, which boasted seats high enough to see over the walls and along the spectacular rows of Georgian buildings. Finally, on this trip, I walked and found the view no less fantastic than I did when jet-lagged on public transportation. Below, the left-hand view is west over Dean Village, while the right-hand view is east towards Leith and Edinburgh’s New Town.
A historical note about the bridge on which I was standing at this point – it is, from Edinburgh’s perspective anyway, a quite new bridge, built in the 1830s to allow easier access across the gorge, from central Edinburgh towards Cramond and, one would assume, the Forth bridges and Queensferry. The village itself is at least medieval in origin, having been a grain milling area for hundreds of years, driven by the Water of Leith – the main river that starts in the Pentland Hills and runs through Edinburgh to join the sea at Leith.
From this comparatively modern street level, visitors traverse down the steep, cobbled Bell’s Brae towards the village itself. I was impressed to see a Sainsburys van also manoeuvring this hill, with some skill.
There is no question that most visitors will start on Bell’s Brae Bridge, which affords phenomenal views in both directions – one towards the Dean Bridge, and the other up the Water of Leith through the village (left and right respectively).
After crossing Bell’s Brae Bridge, I headed up Dean Path, a winding street that climbs up out of the gorge, and reminded me in places of some of the steep hills I recall in New England – the houses were the same style if built of stone rather than clapboards. I managed to get myself a bit lost trying to get into a garden that turns out to be private, but then headed back along the Water of Leith walkway, as I knew there was still plenty to be seen. Firstly, I tested my knees on the steep steps leading down to the water.
I passed the Water of Leith weir, getting properly wet from the spray, and re-joined the village at the crossing of a small footbridge. Unsurprisingly, from this bridge yet more amazing views could be had, particularly of the buildings which are apparently Dean Village Apartments and Well Court, a series of buildings designed to house local workers. They look, to me, almost like they could have been a very posh school, and apparently were extensively repaired in the early 2000s.
I could have stood all day and taken pictures as the light changed, but instead I decided to take a detour back along the Water of Leith Walkway, which stretches all the way to the port but would, I hoped, offer a few opportunities to cut back up towards George Street and the city centre.
Like the village, the path did not disappoint, showing me a side of Edinburgh I had never seen – the backs of stately houses, steep lawns, and of course the river itself.
I would most likely have walked all the way to Leith were I not, by this point, getting quite hungry for lunch. So, I made it as far as St Bernard’s Well, a monument designed in 1789 and recently restored, marking the location of a natural spring that was rumoured to have healing powers.
Having reached St Bernard’s Bridge, I chose to head up into town at this point. Thanks to Google maps I was able to navigate up through the New Town and eventually to the St James Centre at the far end of George Street. It was well worth every step and I can very much see why this area of Edinburgh is so regularly visited, and photographed. Even on a week-day in March, Dean Village was busy with visitors taking advantage of the sunny weather. Absolutely a must-see area of the city and I cannot believe it has taken me this long!
The Wandering Medievalist 