Category: New England

Summer Holiday in Massachusetts, Part 2: The 4th of July!

Jul 22nd, 2026

There is no question that Marblehead takes the 4th of July very seriously. Most of the US does of course, but I have always felt that my hometown really knows how to celebrate. Firstly, the 4th itself tends to fall at or towards the end of the Marblehead Festival of Arts, a 60-year-old tradition of sharing arts of all kinds – performance, music, paint, photography, sculpture and more, from all age and experience levels. I even had some art displayed in it myself, as a child. Secondly, we don’t just do a fantastic fireworks display, but we start the events with the harbor illumination, which I will discuss more below. Thirdly, Marblehead is a town which loves its Colonial-era history, embodied in Glover’s Marblehead Regiment, a group of locals who dress in clothing from the 1770’s and re-enact significant events.

This includes the famous moment on Christmas night 1776 when men of the regiment rowed George Washington across the Delaware River. Marblehead Harbor generally stands in for the river.

Apparently the rowers were from Marblehead.

As I mentioned in my last post, it had been many years since I had been home for this massive national holiday, and I was really excited to experience it again. The days leading up to the 4th had been incredibly hot, so hot that some Festival of Arts activities had been cancelled. But, we managed to get a bit of a wander around and on the Saturday itself, the heat finally became a bit more manageable.

Marblehead Festival of Arts

This year, coinciding with the country’s birthday also happened to be the 60th anniversary of the Festival. There was plenty of excitement and I picked up a commemorative guide book, as well as the requisite t-shirt and a few other souvenirs. I am still impressed that we got the glass back intact…

I went through a phase of collecting t-shirts from every year with the different logos, and recently I’ve tried to resurrect this tradition. Annoyingly most of the old shirts are long gone, but as I looked through this spread of logos from the last 60 years, a few did look familiar. Every year, proposals for the logo are voted upon and selected from a huge range of entries, and while the themes are generally similar, some are markedly better than others. I quite liked this year’s lobster.

The festival activities take over most of the public buildings in Old Town Marblehead, including Abbot Hall, the Town House, and most of the churches (of which there are many, this is old New England after all). Events take place across town, and in the evenings there are open-air concerts at Crocker Park. The sounds from these used to drift across town on summer nights, but I think the volume has been turned down a bit recently. Other events include the Lobster Lunch at St Michael’s Church, where you can purchase a lobster roll or hot dog along with potato chips and other goodies; a raffle where the prize was 20lbs of lobster; an artisan’s market at Abbot Hall; and, this year, chalk street art made by whoever passed by.

The other half and I went out a few times into the heat in the days prior to the 4th, and I spent a bit of time listening to the concerts as I went for my evening walks. It was great to see so many people out – especially on Friday night – bringing beach chairs and blankets up onto the rocks to overlook the harbor and listen to the music. There were kids running around having clearly been in the water, snacks and drinks, dogs, lots of chaos – just good fun. And plenty of bug spray for the mosquitos that come out at dusk.

Fort Sewall and the Boat parade

One thing we definitely did not have the last time I was home in July was Facebook, and a myriad of town-focussed groups publishing endless timetables and reminders about what was taking place. This is how I learned about Glover’s Regiment reading the Declaration of Independence at Fort Sewall, while the annual boat parade wound through the harbor. Despite still impressive heat and eager Marbleheaders already setting up chairs to watch the fireworks that evening, we headed up to listen.

The Regiment was also preparing to fire off a canon 13 times in honor of the 13 original colonies, while some fired muskets, and the Declaration was read in parts. There was a good amount of interest in both, and I found a spot a the front of the crowd next to the microphone, so that I was able to hear the reading. Spoiler alert, the video below only includes the first few stanzas, as we decided we were not up for listening to the whole Declaration. We were game, but they were pausing regularly for the canon, which took a few minutes to fire, and the bowl shape of the old fort meant that we were getting no breeze, in direct sun. So, we heard through ‘life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness’ then headed down a level to watch the boats – in the breeze.

Video of the celebrations leading up to and on the 4th of July:

The boat parade is also traditional and consists of as many boats as possible putting on their patriot glad rags (flags, bunting, whatever), gathering at the mouth of the harbor, and then proceeding in a parade down past the yacht clubs and then up the other side. We caught the first part, anyway.

The reading was at noon, so after a bit of time watching the boats we decided that it was time to head home to lunch – and air conditioning.

Later that evening, we all piled into the car and drove back towards the Fort for the famous annual 4th of July party of some old family friends/former neighbours. They live right on the harbor, with impeccable views.

As evening fell, the thunderstorms that had been threatening to ruin our holiday and delay the fireworks were visible if you looked towards the south. But, as if decreed by the Founding Fathers, the clouds stayed well out to sea and passed us by. The sun set behind us (Marblehead faces east, not a great sunset location), casting a yellow glow over the boats in the harbor and the Neck on the far side.

The Illumination and Fireworks

I have been trying to do a bit of research to work out when or why the illumination started, but without any luck. Our neighbour’s son told me – upon my asking – that his father had been asked to help manage the illumination along Fort Sewall Beach, and so some of the flares were set up and lit by him. In short, flares are spread out around the harbor at relatively equal intervals – perhaps 10 feet? – and, as the sun goes down, they are lit. The sky grows darker and is overtaken by a red glow that surrounds the harbor.

The best view is really from a boat, but those of us at Fort Sewall Beach had a good view too. There is something completely transformative for me about watching this illumination. The smell of the flares and the honk of the boat horns dragged me right back to teen or even tween years, when I might have watched this from Dad’s sailboat or here at Fort Sewall Beach, with family and friends, seeing classmates and half the people you know in town. Every Marblehead family has a special spot for this tradition.

Then, as the flares begin to die and the sky is truly dark, the barge that has been moored at the mouth of the harbor for at least a day or two awakens, and the firework display begins.

I took so many pictures that they could really only be shared in video form. I hope you enjoy.

A short note here about fireworks. I know that many people object to them, particularly for the torture they inflict on pets and people suffering Post-Traumatic Stress. Fireworks are, after all, meant to sound like warfare, memorialising the ‘rockets red glare, the bombs bursting in air’. I entirely sympathise with this, particularly as our own dog was terrified every July 4th, trembling for hours. I am so happy to see that there are now real efforts being made to find ways to comfort pets, who have less free will than people, through blankets that provide gentle pressure and other measures, because quite frankly, fireworks are inevitable on the 4th. I hope that solutions to help pets and people continue and grow more effective.

The morning after the fireworks was our last in the US, as our flight home was that evening (or was supposed to be, though we got caught up in a massive airport-wide fault). But, I discovered that in my excitement I had left my lens cap at our friends’ house, and so we took one last walk up to Fort Sewall. As it was a Sunday and another warm one, the beach was busy with swimmers and boaters – anything to be in or on the water.

I have to say, I truly enjoyed my time home for this holiday and I hope that we can try it again in a few years. The heat was definitely more than I recall experiencing in the past, and it would have been nice to be able to see more of the festival.

Next time, fingers crossed.

I have not done a great deal of reflection on why this holiday was so special to me, nor on what was taking place nation-wide at the time. The latter I will avoid entirely. But being able to take part in the celebrations meant a great deal to me as part of this last year’s reconnection with my roots. My job has allowed me to travel in the US far more than I would ever have had the chance to otherwise, and returning home always has a special meaning. It was so comforting to see that while the people and fashions have changed, so much of what made this Festival special when I was young still exists. The art is still sent in by beginners, children, students and professionals; the ice cream is still the best and drips down your arm; the lobster rolls are still served in the most basic of hot dog bun, which is of course the correct way; the teenagers still move in large groups, trying to find friends or schoolmates; Abbot Hall stands as the main beacon, the one place in town everyone can see; the concerts at Crocker Park are still funky and fun and carry sound over the water; the illumination still cast a red glow over faces and rocks and the harbor as if in anticipation of what is to come; and families still gather on the rocks or on boats to watch fireworks. Even after living away for many years, I was able to touch base, on the 4th, with friends I have known since kindergarten, and I found myself grinning like a child as I watched the display over Fort Sewall.
Summer Holiday in Massachusetts, Part One

Jul 20th, 2026

After spending almost all of May at home, I decided to do the opposite in June, with an epic trip that included a week of work and two weeks with family in Massachusetts. I was determined to see the 4th of July celebrations for the first time in – I think – at least 20 years, and to show the other half how my home town celebrates. And of course, it was a relatively significant year for the US…

So, months of planning turned into my flying into Boston on a Saturday from Chicago to spend two days with Mum before the other half arrived. Despite all efforts by thunderstorms to stall me, I had an easy trip over (though this would be my last good travel luck for some time), and the most shocking thing I had to deal with was the cost of groceries when I took my weekly trip to Stop and Shop.

For the football enthusiasts amongst you, I feel I should point out that we bought our plane tickets a week before the World Cup host cities were announced, and we missed the Scotland game in Boston by about a week. There was still plenty of evidence as to the Tartan Army’s presence, though.

The second shock was the closure of the Driftwood Restaurant, an absolute institution in Marblehead. For decades, the Driftwood had served the widest selection of breakfast foods imaginable to the sailors and families who would arrive as early as possible to get a seat. On a Saturday morning it was not uncommon for there to be a long line for a table, but everyone was happy to wait and chat amiably, knowing that it would soon be their turn for a table – anywhere they could fit you – with a red checked wipeable tablecloth and coffee, eggs, sausages, French toast, bacon, a myriad of pancake flavours, oatmeal and so much more. For me, it lives in my memory as a regular breakfast location for weekends spent with my Dad; we would get up early and trek five minutes down the road – once my recently-washed hair even froze at the ends as we walked. There were plenty of other divorced Dads and kids there, for better or worse, and we occasionally ran into classmates of mine. It was also the location of many ‘sneaky’ adventures with my friend, when we would scrape together enough change for a hot chocolate with whipped cream and marshmallows.

It was sad to see that those who had kept the place going were retiring, though considering they had been there as long as I could remember, it really isn’t surprising. Plus, it would appear as though it is only changing hands, and will open again under new management soon.

My first course of action whenever arriving home is always to take a long walk around town, trying to hit all of the favourite spots and note all of the changes – or lack thereof – that had taken place. As it was the height of summer, there was no shortage of beautiful gardens to enjoy with roses galore, and local wildlife in the form of beautiful red cardinals, hares, and of course ducks.

At least on this occasion, I knew that I had a solid two weeks to explore, so I tried my best not to overdo, and took a few less frequent routes through town. But I had to hit the traditional spots, including Fort Sewall Beach and passing this gorgeous garden hideaway.

Unlike later in the visit, in mid-June the streets were relatively quiet, the calm between the excitement of the 4th of July holiday and the World Cup in Boston.

Here are a few more Marblehead views – note in particular that you can just see the tent across the harbor in Fort Sewall that marked the start of holiday festivities.

A Sunday thunderstorm

One of the things I miss most when spending summers in Scotland is the dramatic thunderstorms of a hot summer day in New England. We get the occasional storm of course, but nothing nearly as regular as in Massachusetts. I LOVE watching thunderstorms – as long as I am not travelling of course – as I have mentioned once or twice before, and so on the Sunday before the other half arrived, I took myself out in the afternoon for a walk. It was clammy, with tension in the air, but the clouds looked far enough away that I would stay dry.

Looking for a high point from which to observe the (hopefully) distant storm, I headed for Old Burial Hill, one of the best places in Old Town Marblehead for a view, and one of the highest. Even as I passed Redd’s Pond, the sky had enough blue in it to be dramatic but not threatening.

I was particularly taken both by the gathering of ducks, and the almost glass-like water. I can never resist this view, one of the most picturesque in town.

I rounded the pond and climbed up the hill, where the views were even more stunning, but also a touch darker – I could hear distant thunder, coming I assumed from the Salem direction.

I watched the cloud on the right for some time, and it seemed to be moving across the sky, not getting any closer. So, I enjoyed the view for a while, took about 100 pictures of the clouds, and headed back down to Pond Street, then curved around back toward the entrance to the pond. This is when I started to realise that that the biggest dark cloud was, in fact, coming my way.

Well, I figured, it was quite warm, and any storm was unlikely to last long, but nonetheless I began to walk a bit faster back towards Mum’s house, about ten minutes away.

Two minutes later, the heavens opened.

I am not sure if New England just felt it needed to prove to this Scottish transplant that it too could rain, but did it ever – massive drops that pelted down, even finding their way through the branches of the ancient tree I hid under (there was no lightening currently). And, no sooner had I realised I was getting wet under the tree, than I also realised that this was not going to be a short shower. Rather than letting up, it got more intense, and in no time at all the streets were rivers.

I had no choice but to venture out from my ineffective shelter and head home.

By the time I walked in the door I was positively dripping, my formerly almost-dry braids soaked through.

I had such a good time!

Fortunately for the other half, who arrived the next day, we did not get another mid-day storm while we were there. We did get some spectacularly misty days though, with a Scottish-style haar (is it still a haar if not in Scotland?) draping over the harbors and hanging at the rooftop level.

A Whale Watch from Cape Anne

One of the first adventures we planned after the other half arrived and had a few days to adjust time-wise was a whale watch, something I had not done since grade school. We chose to leave from Gloucester rather than Boston as it was easily drivable – about 40 minutes – and we thought might be slightly less busy.

It was not less busy, but it was the right decision, as we were able to re-visit the lovely coastal town which is still an active fishing harbor. At about £70 for both of us for a trip of around four hours, we decided it was well worth the experience. So, we set off to arrive 45 minutes before the boat left, and ended up finding parking a bit further away than intended. The day was already warming up, and I was very happy to be heading out onto the water with our packed lunch and a fully-charged camera battery.

We were aggressive enough – though not unpleasantly so of course – to get a seat at the back corner of the boat, right on the edge, where we hoped to get a good view. The advice was that there was no ‘good’ side as the captain worked to get whales on both sides, and we were guaranteed to see them.

The boat was definitely close to full as we slowly pulled away from the dock and out into Gloucester Harbor. It was a relatively quiet morning, and we stayed at the slow harbor pace until we were well clear of the final breakwater. Then, to my delight, we picked up speed and powered out towards Stellwagen Bank, an underwater plateau at the mouth of Massachusetts Bay. It is known as one of the best whale watching destinations in the world due to its nutrient-rich waters, and the marine scientist who was our guide on the journey explained that they used knowledge of feeding patterns as well as other boats to learn where the whales were on a given day.

At first, it was fascinating just to watch the coastline slowly grow smaller and almost disappear, with nothing but wide blue ahead.

Then perhaps 40 minutes or so after leaving GLoucester, we got the word everyone was excited for – there were confirmed sightings of whales ahead. The boat slowed and we drifted slowly towards the first sightings of a group whales – just visible at the surface – circling the feeding ground. The distant skyline of Boston was JUST visible in the distance, and there were a few other boats milling around, everyone focussing on both trying to see and at the same time not disturb the small pod.

It was positively fascinating to watch them dive slowly and float. The marine biologist explained that whales will essentially sleep right at the surface so that they can breathe and rest, and we saw a mother and calf resting together for some time.

It was an absolutely perfect day to be on the water – calm with almost no wind, water that was calm with only gentle swells. We saw almost no sailboats while we were out – evidence of the lack of wind – and only a few fishermen and of course one other whale watching cruise, possibly from Boston. At no point did I need a sweater, just good sun screen and plenty of excitement – I had both.

After about an hour carefully following and viewing the whales, we turned for home, with the boat moving a bit faster and the wind of the movement finally cooling down everyone on deck.

I would love to have an opportunity to do this again, and highly recommend it to anyone visiting the area. I would also highly recommend Cape Ann Whale Watch, the company we used – the boat was clean and the staff were excellent, incredibly knowledgeable and so clearly incredibly caring for the animals we saw, desirous of educating and sharing them in an ethical way.

Swampscott and Salem

One thing we observed while driving north to Gloucester was that the air conditioning in Mum’s car was no longer cooling down. That wasn’t a big issue while the temperatures stayed in the low 80s, but a heat wave was coming around the start of July, with temperatures estimated in the high 90s – a fix was required. Unfortunately, quite a few other people were evidently experiencing a similar issue, and we ended up having to book into a relatively unknown garage further away than Mum’s usual mechanic. With luck, he was excellent, and said he would do what he could to sort it out, and if he couldn’t do so in an hour, it would take a lot more work. So the other half and I took a walk while he worked, strolling along Swampscott beach and enjoying the distant mist that still hung over the ocean and blew in over the beach.

We also enjoyed an excellent ice cream at a local spot – perfect for this type of walk, though it melted…hastily.

A few days later, we chose one of the last temperate days to head over to our favourite area in Salem: Pickering Wharf. There we walked out to the lighthouse, where there are views back over the old port and towards the House of Seven Gables. We considered wandering up through town to the Common, but as the morning passed the heat increased, and we chose instead just to find a spot for lunch. Fortunately, Pickering Wharf is full of places to eat, so we enjoyed a sandwich overlooking the boats.

Side note, one of these days I will write properly about Salem, which has an incredibly rich history both marine and witch-related.

Second side note, our adventure the next day included picking up a new air conditioner for Mum’s apartment, as well. In the newly cool car.

Evening walks and full moon

The increasing temperatures during the day meant that walking became unpleasant; this plus the prevalence of football games on TV (I’m not a massive fan, sacrilegious though that may be) meant that I developed a habit of going for a walk at about 8.30pm each evening. While the heat had generally not dissipated, the sun was gone so it was less intense, and the streets were much quieter.

The last day of June also happened to coincide with the full moon, so the other half and I trooped down to Crocker Park with my tripod to see what we could see.

I have always loved walking around Marblehead at dusk, with the light just starting to change. This evening was no disappointment, and as we were both well-sprayed with OFF! bug repellant, we spent a nice hour down by the water. We were far from the only ones there, as the park was full of other photographers and groups of teenagers and families down to go for an evening swim.

I was not disappointed, and the moon rose directly over the Neck. The last time I had stood in the same location for moonrise, it came up over Children’s Island, in November – fun to see the differences!

A day trip into Boston

While we had missed most of the excitement of the World Cup, we were determined to spend a few hours in the city experiencing a touch of the madness that had taken place when the Tartan Army invaded. I had, for weeks, been seeing videos and posts about the experience, and it make me inordinately happy that two places I loved so much had found one another and made a connection.

Of course we did not drive into the city – I am not a masochist – instead took the subway from Wonderland and alighted at Aquarium. I love to walk down Long Wharf past the Marriot and the Chart House, to the very end where you can see out into the harbor and across to the airport.

As would be expected in early July, the harbor was very busy with cruise boats, whale watches, sailboats of all sizes just barely not crashing into one another. We paused briefly before looping down the other side of the Wharf, enjoying the view over the moored yachts and the park.

I could not visit Boston without a walk through Quincy Market, so this was next, and fortunately just early enough in the day that the lunch rush had not yet started. I was desperate to track down some America 250 merch to have (for posterity) and yet it was hard to find, even in the tourist centre of Faneuil Hall.

What we did find as we turned right along Congress Street was of course the remnants of World Cup fever in Boston. This included the FIFA sign, a few statues still bearing their Glaswegian traffic cones, and a massive banner outside the Sam Adams taproom thanking the Scots for their time in Boston: “5 days, 100 kegs, 5,000 pints – Thanks, Scotland!”

(this collage includes evidence of the Scots in Marblehead, a cone next to a statue and a Saltire still bedecking a house).

I also love to walk up Union Street, which runs roughly parallel to Congress Street past some of the bars we used to go to when I visited home in college. We thought about having lunch at the Bell in Hand, one of the oldest bars in Boston where we had gone for drinks on many birthday nights out in the city, but the lack of air conditioning and busy dining room put us off slightly. We ended up going back to Quincy Market for lunch, and as it was growing hotter by the moment, not long after headed for home.

One brief stop I insisted we make was at the New England Holocaust Memorial, which stands in the park alongside Union Street. Designed to look like the smoke stacks of the camps, it has always moved me and felt an important addition to my Holocaust Memorial Museum visit earlier in the year.

It was a busy ten days, and I feel like I’ve bombarded you all with enough summery pictures for now. From the turn of June into July, the temperature rose to be 100℉/37℃ for several days in a row, and we kept our adventuring much closer to home, and the air conditioning. Plus, that was what we were there for – experiencing Marblehead and the Festival of Arts. Which will be in my next post.

One last collage – we had a fantastic evening bowling with friends and their sons at Sunnyside Bowl. Not only was this the location of more than a few birthday parties when we were young (and it really hasn’t changed) but it offered Candlepin bowling, a type of bowling that Google tells me is played mostly in New England and Canada. Essentially, the pins are smaller and so are the bowling balls, so perhaps easier for kids? Either way, they had Sam Adams and we were the only ones there for at least an hour. Does not get much better or more American than that.

Keep an eye out for Summer Holiday in Massachusetts, Part 2 – coming soon!
Steer Swamp and Gingerbread Hill circuit – Marblehead

Mar 31st, 2026

During my last trip home, I was fortunate enough to experience decent weather, and I had just enough time each day to go out for a walk. I revisited many of my old haunts and walking routes, and was pleased to find many of them not hugely altered.

Steer Swamp was a popular walk location for Mum and I and the dog many years past, as it offers a nice woodland area not too far from where we lived, and enough winding trails that the dog got some exercise. Plus, she was able to wander freely and sniff to her heart’s content (would not let her off the lead now, but that was the 90s). In the autumn it offered bittersweet for cutting to decorate a small wreath, and in the spring and summer was sheltered from the sun. In the winter, as you will see below, it is a touch on the stark side, but on a sunny day even mostly-dead trees and rocks are lovely.

Another advantage to Steer Swamp (or disadvantage, perhaps) is that there are plenty of criss-crossing paths and varied places to enter the conservation area, so it is easy to access. Or, to get lost. Though the Marblehead Conservancy site has a detailed map, which I only found later.

I chose to enter at Norman Street just around the corner from Redd’s Pond, which is a convenient starting point for those not familiar with Marblehead.

As you can see, there is a clear marker here, designating the area as the Joseph Brown Conservation Area. As I have discussed in other posts, the names here have changed in the last 20 years, moving away (very appropriately) from the terms used since Joe’s lifetime in the late 1700s. The pond still seems to be known primarily as ‘Black Joe’s Pond’, and the Tavern by the same name, though anyone digging into Marblehead history will find plenty of issues with both. The Marblehead Museum has a fantastic page on Joe and his wife, Lucretia, should anyone be curious about the history.

The path heads straight away from the road, skirting around a muddy area before heading up the side of a rise on a rocky, uneven path. My sneakers were in danger of becoming a bit sodden and muddy, but they were the only shoes I had with me.

As you move further into the forest, houses are still visible – and audible – through the trees, and the path rises and falls over hillocks with a few side-trails to other entrances. I kept moving, relatively straight away from the road as best I could, with a few glimpses through the branches of the pond to the right. Finally, after only a few minutes, there are several off-shoots leading to the right, and you can cut over to the edge of the pond, which on the day I visited still boasted a coating of slushy ice. Redd’s Pond, very close by, had lost its ice completely, and it was interesting to see how a small change in geography could alter it. Redd’s Pond is a touch lower, open (not surrounded by trees), and I think a touch shallower though I’m not certain on that.

The view across the water towards the red of Joe’s Tavern is a stunning one.

Once you have had your fill of the view, continue back towards the path, and in a short time you will reach a junction. I chose to go left here, though I think right would have eventually circled around to the same place. My direction took me quite quickly down a steep hill.

By the time I reached the bottom, the road noise was gone and though homes were still visible in glimpses through the trees, it began to feel a lot more like a woodland. In fact, this walk took me quickly back to all winter walks I had taken in New England – the same smells, sights, muddy patches and enormous boulders that rise from the forest floor seemingly randomly.

I crossed a small creek on some stepping stones, and continued straight through an almost bower of winter trees, bending over the path so that in the summer I imagine it is a tunnel. By this point, the woods were blocking most of the day’s bitter wind, and so the walk was quite pleasant, just warmed by the sun. The ground was a touch squishier than I might have liked, but most of the worst bits included rocks to cross.

In perhaps ten minutes, I reached a five-way junction, with paths stretching out in all directions. I decided to follow a loop and not turn back on myself, thereby adding in a visit to Grace Oliver’s Beach. I hadn’t really started the walk with a plan, rather it evolved as I walked, which was quite nice. I was not certain at the time how long the loop would take, but I figured it could not be too long – the conservation area here is not particularly large.

Soon after selecting my route, I crossed a lovely wooden bridge bathed in sunlight, though the ground beyond was still covered with an icy coating of snow. This required a bit of careful negotiation, particularly in sneakers, but I managed to get across while passing another walker who looked at me strangely – he was wearing proper boots. I slipped and slid a few times but never fell, so I call it a win.

After crossing this bridge, I soon came across another turn, and this one I knew should be the start of the loop around to the right – I was in theory making a circuit around the marshiest bit of Flag Pond. In very little time, the houses ahead were again visible, so the illusion of being deep in the forest vanished. But, the walk was still more than pleasant, crossing a small brook and around a hillock, following the trail. There were some loud voices carrying through the trees – dog walkers I think – that I hoped would not be following me, but with luck they turned the way I had come, and the quiet returned. It was enormously peaceful, with the occasional birdsong or trees rustling. The ground under foot was layered with oak leaves and pine needles, meaning my steps were quiet, and the scents of fresh cold woods were like a time machine back to my childhood. They say scent is one of the most evocative triggers for memory, and this was most definitely one of those occasions. (Another is any time I set foot outside Haymarket Station in Edinburgh and catch the nearby distillery’s yeasty scent. I inevitably freeze while being carried back to my university years)

As I have mentioned, woods in the winter were my playground as a child – these woods, those in New Hampshire, the Audubon land in Ipswich were we went on many winter outings – all make me want immediately to scale a rock face to establish a fort, or create a lean-to against fallen logs.

I could happily have walked for much longer in this flashback, but in relatively little time it becomes evident that the residential area is springing up quickly at the edge of the conservation land. More houses appeared through the trees, and the road noise began to invade once again – infrequent though it was.

Here, the path takes walkers directly to the junction with Beacon Street as it winds around the wild area, but there is really nowhere at the edge of the street to walk safely. With luck, there is also an option to cut down to the right along a path set back slightly from the road – there are good views here looking over the swamp lands, which I had circled around. There were plenty of paths to take me back the way I had come, but I had already decided I wanted to walk up Gingerbread Hill.

In little time, I emerged on Beacon Street but a bit closer to the beach, and hurried along the edge of the road which is, like many Scottish roads, not really wide enough for two cars to pass. I am not sure why I had never noticed the small creek running at the side of the road, which empties onto the beach, but it also separates the main road from the land beyond (Peach’s Point) which seems quite appropriate.

Fortunately this part of the road is not particularly busy, as there is also really nowhere to walk, so I was pleased to be able to quickly reach the wider road that runs along the beach and turns up to enter Peach’s Point. This area, identified by brick columns that mark the entrance, is a private grouping of homes, most of which are enormous and beautiful. Originally a Native American (Naumkeag tribe) summer camp, it was settled by one of Marblehead’s early families, the Peaches, and eventually became an almost mini version of the neck, in that large summer residences were built for wealthy families.

view from the road of Dolliber;s Cove and the houses on Peach’s Point

Peach’s Point creates one side of Dolliber’s Cove, with the rest created by the public beach named after Grace Oliver, a 19th century writer and women’s rights advocate who lived nearby.

Because of our close access to Gas House beach, I rarely swam here as a child, though it is arguably a more pleasant beach, with a bit more sand and less seaweed. Like Gas House though, it is not particularly large, with a plot of land jutting out into the water here upon which is built a beautiful old house – Grace Oliver House – with a dock and long drive.

I will fully admit to always coveting this house, or at least a visit to it – though my New Englander brain also imagines in must be damaged by storms. Unless of course it is protected, which it must be, by Brown’s Island (as I knew it), which is accessible only at the lowest tide, and sits just off-shore. The right-hand photo above shows it best. Apparently this island was originally owned by Edward Diamond, a local man who was credited with mystical powers and was often seen on Old Burial Hill, known as a wizard (my friends and I were certain he haunted my house, and were obsessed with trying to see his ghost on the hill). The island was re-named Crowninshield Island in the early 1900s, apparently, though I have always heard it referred to as Brown’s.

Just opposite the driveway for Grace Oliver’s House is the easily-missed turn up Gingerbread Hill, an old road that – of course – winds its way up a hill to Black Joe’s Pond and Tavern, before cutting back down to Norman Street. It’s a relatively short walk, but passes some beautiful old homes. There are a few places where you can see through to the pond, and work out which clump of trees you may have been hiding in to look this way. There is also a footpath down the hill to the street, but I chose to stay on the pavement which – as you can see – is narrow. While cars are not regular, walkers should be aware that they may not be visible with the foliage and twisting road.

the late-17th century tavern known as Black Joe’s

Descending onto Norman Street, I found myself only a few hundred feet from the entrance to the Conservation land where I started – a loop of just under two miles. Not particularly strenuous, this is a lovely loop that both allows for some woodland walking but also some real Marblehead history and passes some of the older neighbourhoods. Plus, if inspired, you can continue your walk around nearby Redd’s Pond and up through Old Burial Hill. This is one of my favourite things about Marblehead – there are so many loops you can take, all a bit different, and all showing you a new part of town or a new piece of history you may not have known about.

To finish with, a view of Redd’s Pond and the loop I took, screen captured from Footpath, the app I use to plan walks.

Enjoying my pictures? Why not claim one for your own project or wall space through my online shop:
Adventures in Autumn colour

Nov 12th, 2025

Autumn and winter compete as my favourite seasons of the year, both for photography and life in general. There are few things that make me happier than a snowstorm and snow scape (see my post about Marblehead in snow). That said, the colours of autumn are just stunning, be they orange, red, gold, or anything in between. This year in particular, I had two trips that reminded me of the spectacular nature of autumn on both sides of the Atlantic; and I am lucky enough to call both regions home – or very close to it.

As I have written about before, Pitlochry is a special place for us, and one to which we return regularly. Our first weekend away in November many years ago allowed us to catch the very end of the autumn colour, but this year we chose to take a day trip on my weekend at home, and we caught some gorgeous golds and yellows (despite the often overcast weather). My favourite point on the drive, which I have mentioned before, is just as you turn a corner on the A9, and on this trip we could see just the start of the colour.

In Pitlochry, we parked at the edge of town and meandered our way through the crowds (yes, even a small town in Perthshire has crowds), then down to Loch Faskally and the famous Pitlochry dam, where there is a fish ladder and excellent views in both directions. We crossed the dam and walked a short way around the loch, where we could look back on the trees still in sunshine.

The standard walking loop in Pitlochry goes across the dam and then down the far side of the river, past the Festival Theatre. This theatre reminds me very much of the North Shore Music Theatre which I visited frequently while growing up, for its eclectic shows and unique nature. I have never actually attended a show here, but some day soon…

Not far beyond the theatre, the street passes by some stone cottages on one side and an inn on the other, then walkers must pay close attention not to miss the narrow entrance to the turn-off across the pedestrian suspension bridge. From this bridge, the view looking back towards the dam and the river is fantastic.

Once across the bridge, walkers can continue up through the town or take a sharp left to follow the riverbank back towards the dam and its visitor centre. We chose this route as there were several families ahead of us moving at the pace of the accompanying toddlers, and we wished to go back up to the overlook of the loch, below. Side note, the visitor center is relatively new (opened less than 10 years ago), and offers a great café, small gift shop, and clean restrooms.

The sun on this day just would not cooperate and show off the yellows and oranges the way I wanted, but I think you can get a hint of what we saw.

After a quick lunch in Pitlochry, we headed back to the car to drive up to Killiecrankie, which is only a few miles north.

The walk here is famous for stunning colour, but apparently everyone else had heard that too – there was not a place to park, and so we drove a bit further north to Blair Atholl. Immediately upon crossing the bridge into the town, there is a small car park where we stopped and found a walk along the riverbank.

Finally, here the sun came out in honest and I was able to capture a bit more of what we saw in person, brightness that really isn’t as visible in the above, overcast pictures.

We thought very briefly about going all the way to House of Bruar, but decided it would likely be even busier than Pitlochry, so not appealing. The drive home boasted one more impressive view, looking up at Kinnoull Hill near Perth, from the A9. There was a hint of what once had been (or may be on a less dry autumn).

The rumour on TV was that this year had been so dry, that all of the famous New England colour would be muted. It may be that further north this was the case, but on my drive from Boston to Greenwich, CT and back again, I saw some of the most amazing colour I can remember in many years. Now, granted, this was only my second autumn visit to New England in 20 years, but I found myself in awe over the beauty and vivacity of the leaves. There was one colour, which I do not seem to have managed to capture, that was an almost fluorescent pink-orange that you would not be blamed for thinking could not appear in nature – I was desperate to capture this colour, but it seemed only to exist on the side of the highway, where I could not stop. Nonetheless, I managed a few lovely views and took some short breaks while driving to stretch out my back and enjoy the scenery.

My first stop was at a rest area heading south, about halfway between Sturbridge, Massachusetts and Hartford, Connecticut. I did not expect it, but the small information cabin included a back porch looking over the river below, lined by some stunning maples.

The next morning I found myself favoured by traffic and so 40 minutes early for an appointment, making it possible for me to take a short detour down a tree-lined road to a pond. The reflection of the trees on the calm water was stunning, and there was a small brook meandering past the road.

My final day in Connecticut was dominated by the long drive from New Canaan to Marblehead, through downtown Boston as going through Salem is not an option in October (as I was reminded frequently). This was looking to be around 4 hours, so I planned to stop twice along the way – my back was starting to show the wear and tear of a busy few weeks in the car.

My second and final stop was just outside Sturbridge, Massachusetts, where there was a short mile-long walk around a pond – the perfect opportunity to stretch legs/back, and take a walk in the woods. Sure enough, while once again I was stymied in finding many bright colours, I found the golden hues everywhere, and it was a beautiful afternoon.

The light shining through the yellow trees against white birch bark reminded me of a scene in House of Flying Daggers, a film known for its imagery perhaps more than its story.

I am forever grateful to myself for taking this interlude, as what should have been two more hours in the car turned into three as I hit the Friday afternoon traffic through Boston. That was a long drive.

I am forever grateful, though, for a job that allows me to experience this kind of journey at a time of year when I could not visit for so long. I hope that I may be back next year.

Finally, while this visit to Dunkeld did not take place this year, I have been wanting to post these pictures for some time and was looking for the right time. Several years ago, as I recovered from my second bout of Covid, the other half suggested a day trip as I was no longer testing positive and had been confined to the house for two weeks. Dunkeld is a beautiful village in Perthshire – one of many – even closer than Pitlochry, boasting a medieval cathedral and some lovely homes.

On the day in question, we arrived just after lunch and walked through the village to the cathedral, then down to the river where you can walk along the bank back towards the main bridge.

While it was later in the season, there was still a touch of yellow and gold, particularly in what I think are beech trees. As we approached the bridge, the sun was glinting off the river between the mostly-empty branches of the trees, and I took about 10 pictures of the leaves. These are the better ones.

The day was growing clearer, and so we climbed up to the bridge and across, to take in the view from both sides. In one direction is the village, spread along the riverbank and the hills.

In the other direction is the river and – just visible through the trees – the tower of the cathedral. Covid exhaustion meant that I was not really up for a long walk, and so we headed back towards the car via a coffee shop on the main street.

On the day we visited, there was a perfect Scottish mist hanging on the treetops, though the hints of red and orange are still visible between the green pines.

This is one of my favourite pictures of Dunkeld, and the grassy area you can just see on the left side is where the cathedral grounds meet the river.

There is nothing particularly thought-inducing about this post, but I wanted to share my appreciation for autumn in both of the places I have lived. New England colour is world-famous, and deservedly so, but Scotland – along with many other countries – produces its own autumnal glory. It may not be as dramatic, but it is beautiful.

I hope you enjoy.
April in review – what HAVE I been up to?

Apr 30th, 2025

April has been a month dominated by travel – I was away from home for 3 1/3 weeks, with half of the time spent working and the other half with family for an important family birthday 😉 (IYKYK)

Dallas-Fort Worth

My trip started in the Dallas-Fort Worth region, with a heavier focus on Fort Worth than Dallas. It isn’t always easy to get a good feel for a place when you are bouncing between events, your hotel, and the occasional restaurant, but I think I can say I preferred Fort Worth ever so slightly to Dallas. We had decidedly un-Texan weather for most of that first week, with thunderstorms, wind and rain, temperatures closer to 50℉ than the expected 70+. In fact, the Scottish and Texan weather seemed to swap, as while I shivered in my sandals and non-existent outerwear, Scotland was sunny and warm. Not that I am bitter…

One of the most commonly asked questions when I return from a trip particularly to Texas is ‘what did you eat?!’ or more specifically, ‘did you get barbecue?’ Short answer – yes I got BBQ, twice in fact, as well as plenty of Tex-Mex and some southern-style fried chicken. The food is always a highlight when going to a foreign country, and coming from the North East, I find anything south of New York to be as foreign as Europe 😄

Austin

From Dallas, we drove down to Austin where we finally got the proper Texan weather we were hoping for – sun and heat but not too much heat. On our first day we were fortunate enough to finish about 4pm and so took ourselves down to the river where there is a gorgeous walk, miles long, well-kept and winding through trees and gardens. It was impressively busy, with probably hundreds of Austinites (I googled, this is apparently the correct term) out for a walk, run, or cycle.

The city of Austin is fascinating, both for its position in the US tech world (a second Silicon Valley according to many) and for its variation in green space and architecture. There are plenty of modern sky-scrapers and apartment buildings, but also the occasional older-style house, and rows of older shops, bars and restaurants. I desperately hope that I can go back, as I really feel I only scraped the surface of what Austin has to offer.

Part of that surface was, of course, the famous Terry Black’s BBQ. An informal friendly atmosphere, this restaurant requires you to wait in a queue, and even gives you the option of buying a beer or drink while you wait. Inside you loop past merch (t-shirts, hats, and so much more) and have plenty of time to think about what you want to order. There were more than 10 sides, 5 or 6 meat options, and plenty of drinks.

After your meat has been slapped onto your tray – no plates, just paper-covered trays – you need only find a place to sit in a method reminiscent of a high school cafeteria. The meal once you get to it is more than worth it. We had been on a good 4-mile walk in the heat, and felt we had more than earned our delicious dinner.

Another Texas institution that we were required to visit, particularly on our drive, was Buc-ees, the most incredible rest stop I have ever seen. The appeal is multi-faceted: the restrooms are clean and many; there is parking and gas pumps enough for 18-wheelers and plenty of cars; there is an impressive line of soda dispensers in numerous different home-made flavours; and when it comes to shopping, where to begin? They have standard car snacks like crisps, nuts, candy; jerky in numerous flavours; a bakery; a fudge stand; every refrigerated drink you could want; sandwiches; fresh fruit; a pulled-pork BBQ stand; sauces and spices; car supplies like window wash; Buc-cee’s and Texas merch – and so much more I have forgotten.

Of course, I did get a selfie with the Buc-cee statue.

Marblehead

After only two days in Austin I flew up to Boston for a family get-together and week at home. The other half joined me from Scotland, and after the big event took place early in the visit, we had a gloriously relaxed week seeing friends, taking walks, sleeping and reading. It was the holiday we both desperately needed, and the weather was mostly very good.

Concord and Lexington

One small adventure we did take was a visit to the town of Concord, MA. We had originally planned to go later in the week, but the preparations for the 250th anniversary of the Shot Heard Round the World meant that hotel costs skyrocketed. So, we went a bit earlier, taking advantage of how short the drive was (about 50 minutes from Marblehead).

To start with, we visited the Minute Man Visitor Center, where you can pick up the walking trail that leads from Lexington to Concord. We were not quite prepared to do that whole path, but did take a short wander along it through the trees; on either side were well-kept Colonial homes and plenty of informational plaques about important buildings that are now lost.

The museum includes a short video presentation that teaches visitors about the events at Lexington and Concord in April 1775 – definitely worth a watch! Despite my having grown up nearby and being indoctrinated with Revolutionary War history from a young age, I had forgotten more than I realized and it was great to bring it back again. Also to learn – which I’m not sure I had – that the shot was significant not as the first shot of the Revolutionary War, as the British had been shooting at colonists for years. Rather, it was the first time the organized militia shot back. The start of a long rebellion, and one that would spread…

As we could not yet check in to our hotel, we decided to visit the important historical site of the North Bridge, which is where the shot actually took place. There is a finely-restored brick home that serves as the visitor centre and overlooks the Concord river, down to the bridge and Minute Man statue. The path from the visitor centre is well-kept and winds gently down the hill, across the bridge, and back up the far side where it passes the Old Manse. This beautifully rambling colonial building was home to both Ralph Waldo Emerson and Nathaniel Hawthorne at various times; it was not open when we visited.

With our Revolutionary War history refreshed (or in the case of the other half, informed), we headed back into the town to check into our hotel, the Concord Inn. It was a lovely spot, with impeccably-restored colonial features. There are older, more traditional rooms in the inn proper, though we were housed in the more modern addition. While I wasn’t overwhelmingly impressed with the staff, and the room was incredibly warm, we were nonetheless comfortable for a night.

We did take one more walk around the town of Concord, down the Main Street and circling through the neighbourhoods to visit two graveyards. The first was the Old Burying Hill, located just off the Common, and the location of the original meeting house. The second was the more famous Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, where there is an entire section devoted to famous authors of the greater Boston area. Here are buried, amongst others, Henry David Thorough, Nathaniel Hawthorne, Louisa May Alcott, and Ralph Waldo Emerson (who we never did find)

Our afternoon of exploring was brought to a relatively quick halt when dark clouds rushed in quite swiftly, blocking the sun. We made it back to the inn with about five minutes to spare before the heavens opened.

The following morning, we did make a short stop in Lexington before heading back to the north shore.

Back in Marblehead

Finally, we finished the week back in Marblehead meeting friends for dinner and attending Easter Sunday services. As I mentioned on my Instagram post from the day, I am not a particularly religious person, but the music is always emotional. Furthermore, this is the church we attended for most of my childhood and in which I was baptised, so there is always a pleasant feeling to return.

I have written about Marblehead several times, including an entire post on the best views, but I thought that I might include here two views I have not, I believe, included before. The first is taken from the causeway leading out to Gerry Island; this is a small island that is only accessible at low tide (or probably from about half-tide really), and walkers have to be very careful not to be caught. The tide can come in very quickly, and in a matter of minutes you may go from ankle- to knee-deep water. So why the appeal? For me, it is very simple: this was where I played when we lived nearby, and visited Gas House beach regularly. I have a feeling I may write a post just about Gerry so I won’t go into too much detail, but I think it safe to say that the island has a special meaning to most people who lived in this area in the 80s and 90s, at least. The second photo is from the island, looking towards Fort Sewall and Marblehead light.

One last note

There is one last issue about which I wish to write; I have changed my mind several times about whether to address this topic.

For this trip, I was of course travelling in the US, my home country. It is something I have done for both business and pleasure numerous times, but I have to admit that this occasion did hold some heightened anxiety. The news and the internet have been flooded in recent weeks and months with stories about the state of the US border, and the number of visitors who have experienced difficulties upon entering or attempting to enter – phone searches, entry refusals, even imprisonment. I was relatively confident that as a US citizen travelling from Europe for business, I would be in a good place. But academics and those who travel from Europe were also flooding sites with questions: will my phone be searched? Should I have a burner phone, as the posts suggested? Is that worse? Would my partner, with his British passport, experience an additional difficulties? Neither of us use social media for politics (in fact he does not use it at all), but I think if there is one pervasive message of the last few months it is that very few things that we used to take for granted can still be considered in that way.

So, anxiety was high for this trip. But, for the record, neither I nor my partner had any difficulty at all with border control, and in fact had the exact same experience we always had. My flight cancellation and attempt by the airline to send me to Dallas via Portland (Oregon) were less fun, but in the end we both got to the US with relatively little drama. As I mentioned above, I have debated whether I even wanted to address these anxieties in writing, but decided that I found it important to do so. Because I was scared, I was worried, even if I could assert out-loud that I was not.
Discover the top 10 Best Viewpoints in Marblehead, Massachusetts

Aug 5th, 2024

We have had a rough few weeks here in the Wandering Medievalist house, but I am excited to get back to writing, not in part as a catharsis and way of moving forward.

I have been trying for some time to work out the best way to showcase Marblehead. Should I write a series of posts on specific locations, or try to share a bit of everything? I’m sure I will do the former at some point, but in the meantime I’m focussing on the latter, sharing a few of my favourite viewpoints in Marblehead, where you can get some excellent views and photos, and a real understanding for the flavour of the town. These spots are my go-to locations whenever I visit, and I have dozens of pictures of each. Here are a few of my favourites.

I’m sure there are Marbleheaders who will disagree with me, but so be it. 😁

1. Marblehead Lighthouse and Chandler Hovey Park

Marblehead Lighthouse is iconic and appears on all Marblehead memorabilia as well as ‘famous lighthouse’ lists. It isn’t the traditional style lighthouse, but was built as a skeletal metal structure – replacing the more conventional version – in 1895. It isn’t to everyone’s taste necessarily, but it is the only one of its type in New England.

The area around the lighthouse, Chandler Hovey Park, is popular for many uses – picnics, summertime church services, games, and much more. It also commands a spectacular view down the harbor, across to Fort Sewall, and of course out to sea. It is the perfect place to watch the busy comings and goings of pleasure and fishing boats, to view boat races, or to watch the sunset.

2. Devereux Beach and the causeway

Most beaches in Marblehead are rocky with only small patches of sand, if they have any at all. Many are also hedged in by rock cliffs that divide them from the next beach or cove (Gas House Beach, Fort Sewall Beach, Grace Oliver Beach – few are the sandy havens you picture when you hear the word ‘beach’).

The exception is Devereux Beach, a long sandy expanse created by the causeway that connects the Neck to Marblehead proper. Like Revere and Lynn beaches further down the coast and many more further north, Devereux is ideal for building sandcastles and enjoying the sun, and sometimes even waves. Parking is free for Marblehead residents with a sticker, and there are public restrooms open in-season. You can even rent a kayak to explore the inner harbour.

The beach’s popularity is evident in the shaded bench area and seasonal concession stand that has changed hands numerous times. On a clear day you can view the Boston skyline in the distance, or cross the road for views of Old Town and up the harbor.

Devereux is also famous for hosting the annual Marblehead High School Junior Carnival, where the rising seniors put on a fun fair to raise money for their final year. It is a highlight of spring and really marked the start of summer for all students in Marblehead.

3. Abbot Hall and Washington Square

Built in 1876 to replace the Old Town House, Abbot Hall is the current town hall for Marblehead, seat of the local government and also a museum. The clock tower is the pinnacle of the skyline, visible from many of the viewpoints on this list as the highest point in the old town. The original ‘Spirit of ’76‘ painting is housed here, depicting a fife and drum player against an early American flag, and ‘Spirit of ’76’ was a long-time bookstore in Marblehead until its untimely closure. During the Marblehead Arts Festival in July, there are often arts and crafts taking place in the grassy park, and an auditorium inside is a well-used recital or concert venue for local schools.

The red brick Romanesque hall itself is a stunning picture, but Washington Square, which runs along three sides of the hall (Washington Street makes up the 4th) is equally beautiful, lined with well-kept colonial houses from old sea captain’s houses to some of the oldest in Marblehead. It is reminiscent of some parts of Salem, and the square will be recognisable to anyone who has seen ‘Hocus Pocus’ as doubling for the larger town. Washington Street continues down to the Old Town House, one of the main arteries of old Marblehead, and the walk from Abbot Hall down to the centre of old town is a must for visitors.

4. Little Harbor

Little Harbor lies just around the Fort Sewall point from the main harbor and is protected by Gerry Island, which is accessible at low tide. At high tide the water is deep enough for a full sailboat, and several of the town’s boat yards, where sailboats dry dock during the winter, are accessed through Little Harbor. Most of the permanent ‘residents’ are fishing or lobster boats, and you can buy that day’s fresh seafood and lobsters of all sizes, either cooked or still kicking, at the Little Harbor Lobster Company.

Little Harbor is also the location of Gas House beach, my childhood playground. The beach is protected from the waves by Gerry Island and so the water is often warm, though at low tide it can be a bit mucky.

I have always loved the view from Gas House beach at sunrise or sunset, when the edge of the horizon turns orange and pink while the sky stays blue, but it is equally lovely on a blue summer day. At Christmas, one of Marblehead’s icons sits in Little Harbor – a white dingy bearing a Christmas tree decorated with starfish and other oceanic decorations.

5. Joe Brown’s Pond and Steer Swamp

For a relatively small town, Marblehead has its fair share of ‘wild’ spaces, including the Steer Swamp Conservation land that is most easily accessible from Gingerbread Hill, and the network of streets behind Redd’s Pond. I recall spending many weekends walking our dog here when I was young, exploring all of the many winding paths. While named a ‘Swamp’, much of the land is plenty dry to explore, but there are definitely some low bits that can be unpleasantly buggy or wet.

At the edge of the conservation land lies what was known in my childhood as Black Joe’s Pond, a body of water that has received attention recently for its insensitive name. ‘Black’ Joe is a famous Marblehead resident – his grave is well-marked at Old Burial Hill – who was a former slave, Revolutionary War veteran and opened a tavern near the pond with his wife, Lucretia. Joe Froggers, a famous local cookie made with molasses, were originally created and sold by Lucretia, and the recipe lives in most Marblehead cookbooks and stores.

The tavern still stands, well-preserved as so many old Marblehead buildings are, and the pond was a good place for skating and hockey playing when I was young. Slightly less popular than nearby Redd’s Pond, this pond is a bit more traditional, surrounded mostly by woodland.

In 2021 the town re-named the pond and conservation area to the ‘Joseph Brown Conservation Area’, though I believe the tavern sign may still refer to ‘Black” Joe and his wife.

6. Fort Sewall and Fort Sewall Beach

Fort Sewall is iconic in Marblehead for so many reasons. Steeped in history, it overlooks the entrance to the deep harbor, and the architecture of the fort is still present in the barracks with barred windows dug into the hill. The promontory known as Gale’s Head was first fortified in 1634, and rebuilt as a fort during the Revolutionary War, where it was garrisoned by Colonel John Glover’s regiment. Marbleheaders were not present at some of the earliest battles of the Revolution, but were responsible for ferrying George Washington across the Delaware River in 1776, a famous turning point in the war. In a moment recreated in the 90s, Fort Sewall protected the USS Constitution as it took shelter in Marblehead harbor during the War of 1812, and the fort was re-named in 1814 for Samuel Sewall, Chief Justice of the Supreme Court.

Incredibly popular at all times of year, the fort is where you to go walk, to ride your bike, to view both the little and great harbors. In the summer it has been known to host Festival of Arts activities and Shakespeare in the Park, and at Halloween the dungeons used to be opened for trick-or-treaters – if you dared. In views that mirror Chandler Hovey park across the water, Fort Sewall allows you to look down the harbor or out to sea, and it is a perfect spot for sunrise. The harbor channel, a path free of moorings, starts just off the fort, so sitting here will allow you to watch all of the sea traffic going in and out. It does not take much to see why this point would have been selected for defence of the town and harbor!

7. Crocker Park

Another famous viewpoint, Crocker Park is located about halfway down the harbor and, like Fort Sewall or Marblehead Light, a good spot for pictures of the harbor at sunrise and sunset. Just off Front Street, the park is a great detour, and is often busy with dog walkers or children playing on the rocks. There are plenty of sheltered seats, a pergola, public toilets, and a large grassy area that is used for weddings, concerts and more in the summer. The park can also be used for swimming, as in the summer the town will float docks for those willing to take a dip in the busy harbor. Even in the winter it is easy to see why Marblehead is such a good harbour; the rocks fall sharply to the waterline and continue 20 – 30 feet below.

Crocker Park is unique in offering a perfect view of old town; if you stand under the chestnut tree, you get an ideal picture of the old houses, piled on top of one another, climbing up the hill to the pinnacle of Abbot Hall.

8. The Landing

Just around the corner and down the harbor coast from Crocker Park is the Landing, the public town dock of Marblehead. In an old sail loft building now lives the Landing Restaurant, while on the other side of the car park is the Driftwood, the Marblehead institution known for serving good breakfasts from early in the morning. One will often find mariners at the counter chatting with the servers, and when I was young it was a popular spot for Dads and kids on a Saturday morning. There is often a queue out the door after 7am or so, and they only accept cash.

The area of the landing lives in my mind as a key part of childhood. For many years there was a popular ice cream shop – Nancy’s Incredible Edibles – often visited on a summer evening, and the boat to Children’s Island – a summer camp – left from the dock. Perhaps most important of all childhood memories is that on the first weekend of December, also known as Marblehead Christmas Walk weekend, all of the children gather at the landing to watch Santa arrive on a lobster boat. He and Mrs Claus step onto the landing dock and pass out candy canes as they move through the crowd, then disappear until the tree lighting ceremony that evening. There are more than a few pictures of me as a child all wrapped up and waiting to see Santa.

Finally, the Landing offers plenty of bench space where you can sit with a morning cup of coffee – or an ice cream – and watch the comings and goings. The sunrise is beautiful over the Neck, and in early mornings it is one of the most peaceful spots in town.

9. Old Burial Hill and Redd’s Pond

Redd’s Pond was named for Wilmot ‘Mammie’ Redd, who was one of the only non-Salem residents taken as a victim of the famous Witch Trials of 1692. The pond must play a part in most if not all Marblehead childhoods, whether through memories of feeding the ducks and geese, racing toy boats, ice skating or sledding on the nearby hill. I am relatively certain that the pond does not freeze hard enough for skating as often as it did when I was young, nor is there as much snow. The path around the pond invites peaceful contemplation, and offers beautiful views up towards Old Burial Hill, with its monuments standing out against the sky.

The Burial Hill was established in 1638 and is one of the oldest in New England; it is one of the highest points in town and offers clear views out to sea, over the pond, and over the harbor. I have written a great deal more about Burial Hill, but suffice it to say, it is one of the best places in town for pictures, with nothing but vistas in every direction.

10. Old Town House and State Street

The Old Town House was constructed in the 1720s as a replacement for the even older meeting house on Franklin Street, with the meeting space upstairs and space for a market downstairs. It was then supplanted by Abbot Hall in the 1870s, though it is still used actively as a town hall, polling place and Police Museum. During the Arts Festival in July, it is also used as an exhibition space, as are most public buildings in town. Its location in the middle of Washington Street makes it perfectly placed to grace many photos of old town, and it is as iconic as Abbot Hall.

Standing at the corner of Washington and State Streets, just across from the Old Town House, is another of my favourite spots in Marblehead – looking down State Street towards the Landing. Old Town Marblehead has no shortage of charming houses and crooked streets, almost all of them well-kept up and decorated for whatever the current season may be. State Street is one of the loveliest, I think, with each house painted a proper Colonial shade and most bearing a plaque telling passers by about the original owner or builder.

Honourable mention to: Memorial Park

This might seem a bit of an odd one, but I’ve included it for several reasons. Firstly, Memorial Park is where the former YMCA building stood – the site of many swimming lessons and swimming birthdays – as well as the enormous pine tree that was used for the Christmas tree lighting until both were removed in 2011.

Secondly, it is another good place for people watching, as some of the busiest streets in Marblehead intersect. The park is only steps from the Marblehead Grand Bank, the bus stop, and Starbucks.

Thirdly and most importantly, Memorial Park has an annual role to play during the Memorial Day Parade, which I marched in many times as a Girl Scout. Often under meltingly hot May sun, the parade is held every year to commemorate the loss of Marbleheaders from the Revolutionary war onwards. The primary memorial in the park centre is devoted to those who died in the Revolution, War of 1812, and Civil War, then there are additional stone slabs for each subsequent conflict. This includes, below, the memorial to those who died on 11 September 2001, of which several were from Marblehead. Two of the planes that day took off from Boston, and I recall walking through town that afternoon, when everything was quiet and flags suddenly appeared as they often do on the 4th of July. As many Americans – and doubtless those around the world – experienced, it felt very personal. Our small town, like so many, was touched by that horror. And would continue to be as the years went on.

I hope you have enjoyed this brief trip around Marblehead, and that if you ever visit yourself, you can stop by some or all of these points to experience some of the best views in town. I am personally fond of an early morning – often jet lag-fuelled – walk through Crocker Park, along Front Street to Fort Sewall, and then back over the Old Burial Hill. But I am sure all Marbleheaders have their favourite routes.

Loving these pics of Marblehead? Get one for your wall from my online shop!
Night photography – my beginnings

Mar 21st, 2024

When living in a country where dark is so prevalent in the winter, one must be willing to accept and even embrace the night sky and the often stunning light that comes after sunset.

In St Andrews, the streets and buildings are illuminated not just by street lights but by displays specifically designed to accentuate the stunning nature of the architecture. In fact, in most towns and cities now there is always light after dark, ensuring that visitors – and photographers – can continue to enjoy the sights and get from A to B.

In recent years I have become increasingly fascinated by the moon and stars. For more than a year now I have been trying to really capture especially the stars, a feat much tricker than it may appear, and one that has left me with hundreds of shots of a mostly black sky. But I am learning with each attempt, and each night I stand in the cold and try to get it right.

Night can be a fascinating time to capture your favourite daytime spots – I hope you enjoy some of my efforts to do so!

Boston, Massachusetts, USA 🇺🇸

There is a lot to love about Boston at night, though I particularly love the winter lights. When I was young we used to drive into the city every December to see the Nutcracker ballet, and I recall with utter clarity the wonder of driving past the Common to see the trees festooned with lights and every lamppost adorned with a Christmas decorations. The ‘Christmas’ nature has widened to encompass all holidays, and the lights are still stunning.

City view from Christopher Columbus Waterfront Park.

Carcassonne, France 🇫🇷

I consider myself so lucky to have been able to visit Carcassonne and to have found a hotel in the newer part of the city with a spectacular view of the medieval town. At night, it was almost more magical than during the day.

Edinburgh, Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

As anyone who has routinely read my blog is aware, Edinburgh is one of my favourite cities, second only to Boston. It is almost absurdly picturesque, both old town and new, and boasts some incredible Christmas decorations, particularly around the German Christmas market.

Panorama of Princes Street from the castle

Marblehead, Massachusetts, USA 🇺🇸

Whenever I visit home, I make an effort to walk around the town at least two or three times each trip, and an evening wander home from dinner or a drink with a friend is a great opportunity to capture the town at night. I am also inevitably either welcomed back or given a send-off by the Logan Airport flight path, which passes almost directly over Marblehead, allowing for some great sky shots – who needs a drone when you have Aer Lingus?

Little Harbor

Marblehead from an Aer Lingus flight

State Street

Puerto Rico 🇵🇷

Night in the Caribbean can be a very different place than anywhere else; it is seldom quiet, and I find very seldom as dark as anywhere else. Perhaps because there are often many people about, perhaps due to reflection of the moon and stars off of the water, or perhaps something to do with the warmth.

Ponce, Puerto Rico

Fajardo, Puerto Rico

St Andrews, Fife, Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

I have spent a great deal of time in St Andrews, after dark as well as before, and so I have hundreds of pictures of the town at night. These are just a few of my favourites.

The Moon at night 🌚

I defy anyone to take a walk at night during the full moon and not stop, just once, to wonder at it. I have become so obsessed with capturing the full moon that I even have it marked in my calendar. At this time of the year, near the equinox, the moon is often in the sky during the day and offers a perfect opportunity to capture it; but that is not the point of this post. Mankind has been fascinated with the moon for generations, even more so since we actually went there…I personally am continually surprised by how clear it can look even just to the naked eye.

And the stars… 🌌

Taking clear, atmospheric photos of the stars requires a spot with as little light pollution as possible, a tripod, plenty of time to try different settings, and some knowledge about how to edit the products of your time. I’m getting there, though I’ve got a way to go to equal some of the spectacular professional shots one sees online.

This one was taken on my phone with a night setting, so feels a bit like cheating.

If you open this one up, you should just be able to make our the Orion.

The night sky in Skye – so little light pollution up north!

Finally, I’ll wrap up with a sequence of pictures I took one evening as the moon rose; I’ve mashed them all together, and I hope they provide even a touch of the awesome nature of the full moon.
Sunrises and sunsets

Feb 9th, 2024

Throughout the many depressing months of lockdown, a morning or evening walk was often the time to which I clung to relax and refresh my mind. Few things helped more than stopping before a beautiful yellow-orange-red sky, catching a glimpse of some distant pink, or watching the sky fade into purples and dark blue. I have always loved getting up early to catch the start of the day.

The thing about sunrises and sunsets is that you can never really be sure when you’re going to get a good one. Some mornings or evenings you’ll be out there with your camera ready and the colours just won’t appear, and everything fizzles away. Then other days you’re walking or driving home from work or on the bus and suddenly colour appears in the sky that is just so spectacular it should have its own symphony. To a great extent it’s all about being lucky, being in the right place at the right time and then of course being ready to capture the colours if you can. Though there is also, of course, an element of persistence, going out whenever you can, and even trying to read the clouds. I by no means claim to be an expert at this. Some days the colour is earlier than you think, or later, or even in a part of the sky you did not expect. You can never predict it perfectly.

But once you do, and you get the pictures you want, it is always worth taking a few moments to just enjoy the peace, and the drama.

Fajardo and Vieques, Puerto Rico 🇵🇷

Caribbean sunsets and sunrises tend to be surprising – they are either spectacular and dramatic or sometimes a touch underwhelming. Dawn and dusk come with less speed than in other parts of the world, moving slow in the heat that never really fades even at night. I have been lucky enough to experience quite a few of both over the years, and I have developed a bit of a fascination with pictures of sunlight through palm leaves.

Glencoe, Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

My favourite place in the Highlands, Fort William, is not overly well-situated for sunsets, as mountains block the sun well before it hits the horizon. A bit further south in Glencoe, however, Loch Leven runs almost due west and allowed for these stunning pictures one April evening.

Guardbridge, Fife, Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

In 2021 as lockdown really took hold, I made it a point to go out for a walk every weekday morning before work, even in the rain and snow. My route included a breathtaking vista across the Eden Estuary towards St Andrews, where the church towers and cathedral ruins punctuate the skyline. Often flocks of birds and even local deer made cameos in these pictures, as well,

Marblehead, Massachusetts, USA 🇺🇸

Marblehead is a perfect spot for colour at both ends of the day, with sun rising over the Neck or mouth of the harbour, and setting over the causeway and old town. In recent years, jet lag has allowed me to capture some gorgeous sunrises particularly in winter.

St Andrews, Fife, Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Top of the list of beautiful settings with castle and cathedral ruins, University buildings, wide beaches and dramatic coastline that sheds in layers into the sea, is St Andrews. I have no shortage of pictures of sunrise and sunset; here are a few of the best.

Tayport, Fife, Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

We did not live in Tayport for very long, and a good portion of the time we were in Covid lockdown, but we were fortunate enough to have a fantastic view from our kitchen. I was known on more than one occasion to throw a coat or sweatshirt on over my pyjamas to rush down to the harbour, to get these pictures across the Firth of Tay.

And a few more…

This sunrise lives in my mind as one of the last before lockdown started…taken from the Tay Rail Bridge in March 2020 as a colleague and I travelled to Edinburgh.

Sunrise from the train to Edinburgh – I always sit on the left side of the train to enjoy the views across the Firth of Forth, particularly in the morning.

Glenrothes sunset.

Sunset on the Isle of Skye.

Sunset over the Charles River, Boston.

Sunset on the Lomond Hills.

Finally, I’ll wrap up with one of my favourite views at one of my favourite times of day and year – icy sunrise over St Andrews.
Marblehead snowstorm

Jan 27th, 2024

I realise that I quite recently wrote a post just about snow, but perhaps you will forgive me from focussing on the same topic again. On our recent trip back to the US, we were desperately hoping for a good snow storm to make our winter break feel real. New Hampshire usually comes through for us, but instead our first week or so was plagued with weather very similar to what we expect in Scotland – mild (for winter), wet and grey. But, as New Years Eve approached, we started to see predictions for a good storm the following weekend, one that would cover the whole of New England.

Saturday dawned, annoyingly, bright. As the day moved on, rain came in but the temperature stayed too high for any snow. On Saturday night, the streets were empty as people battened down the hatches and prepared for the storm. Even Sunday did not seem particularly positive, then not long after noon, the temperature dropped – rain turned to snow and after an hour or so began to accumulate. I was, to say the least, excited. As the afternoon went on, the storm continued steadily, with wind and huge flakes. By 3pm I could stand it no longer: I borrowed boots from my mother, wrapped up in my Boston winter coat (a black down thing so heavy I would never be able to wear in the UK) and ventured out into the storm. It was, in a word, perfect.

It was still snowing as we went to bed that night, and the following morning was incredibly clear. I got up early and went out to try to catch some of the morning light on the snow. Another perfect walk. I took so many pictures that I have had to turn them all into a movie…I hope you enjoy!

Marblehead snowstorm 2024
A walk through Boston – part 2

Jan 22nd, 2024

I am picking up my favourite walk through Boston at the corner of Boston Common across from the State House.

If you have chosen to visit the Shaw and 54th Memorial, my advice here is to follow the edge of the Common for a block or so and then cross Beacon Street when you find it convenient. You are spoiled for a view here – to your left is the Common, and to your right the start of the beautiful stately architecture that edges Beacon Hill, still one of the most desirable areas of the city.

If you enjoy looking at older and expensive real estate, by all means choose either Walnut Street or Spruce Street to turn right and head up-hill. I would recommend continuing to Mt Vernon Street where you can get a glimpse of Louisburg Square, one of the most picturesque areas of the city that evokes parts of London. Head down Mt Vernon Street to the left/west, parallel to Beacon Street.

In no time at all, you will again reach Charles Street where you can turn left and follow it back towards the Common. There are some charming shops in this area to explore, if you have time. Also, the original Cheers bar is just a bit further along Beacon Street to the right, though remember that the interior of the bar itself does not look like it did on TV. The replica in Quincy Market closed in 2020.

Crossing Beacon Street, you will find yourself with Boston Common on the left, and Boston Public Garden on your right. The land here was originally mudflat, and filled in to create the Garden – and much of the Back Bay – in the early 1800s. If you have any interest in the evolution of the land mass of Boston from peninsula to modern city, I highly recommend the book Mapping Boston.

Stop 5 – Make Way for Ducklings

Most Boston children, at some point I imagine, have read the famous book by Robert McCloskey, Make Way for Ducklings, a lovely story about two ducks looking for a place to raise their family. (Incidentally, McCloskey also wrote two of my other favourite children’s books, Blueberries for Sal and One Morning in Maine).

This book was the inspiration for one of the most famous statues – or series of statues, more accurately – in Boston, which are at various times of year dressed in Sports gear, Santa hats, and other such things.

As you walk away from the ducklings and towards the bridge – resist the urge here to go around the end of the pond – you will almost inevitably meet well-fed geese, ducks and squirrels.

The path follows the edge of the water, allowing for excellent views across the pond where swans and swan boats busy the water in summer months.

Stop 6 – Swan Boats and Footbridge

In very little time, you will find yourself at the suspension foot-bridge that spans the pond, and from which there are excellent views of the Garden and city beyond.

Cross the footbridge, and turn left to head towards the far corner of the Garden, where Boylston and Arlington Streets meet. Before leaving the park, you may wish to make a visit to the 9/11 Memorial and Garden of Remembrance. Two of the four planes that were hijacked that day left from Boston Logan Airport, and the memorial is a moving spot, listing the names of those lost from Massachusetts and New England.

Stop 7 – Arlington Street subway station

You can exit the Public Garden immediately next to the memorial, or continue to the corner. Either way, you will find yourself roughly in front of Arlington Street Church and with a final choice to make. I generally prefer to walk straight up Boylston Street towards Copley Square, but if you wish to do a bit of shopping you may prefer to detour one block over to Newbury Street. If you’re feeling like you’ve had enough exploration, you can always hop on the Green line at Arlington Station and take it back a few stops to return to Government Centre or Haymarket.

Though not as famous in Boston as Newbury Street, Boylston has plenty of shops and restaurants as well, and it’s only about two more blocks to reach the Trinity Church and Copley Square.

Stop 8 – Copley Square

The walk continues through the square and into the Westin, however before you reach that hotel you will pass several points of interest.

First, the church itself, constructed in the 1870s though the parish had existed for 150 years previous and suffered several fires.

Second (again a bit of a detour) if you continue up Boylston for about half a block, you will find the finish line of the Boston Marathon, painted in blue and yellow across the street. Immediately beyond is the memorial to the victims of the Marathon Bombing in 2013.

Third, the stunning Boston Public Library, which to my surprise was opened in the early 1970s but has the feel of a much older building. Inside are stunning murals and grand staircases, as well as one of the largest collections in the US.

It may seem a touch strange, but trust me when I say that to continue on this route, you enter the Copley Westin and go up the escalator. If you walk straight across and do not enter the hotel, there is a pedestrian bridge across the road into Copley Plaza proper. In the plaza are any number of high-end shopping choices such as Neiman Marcus, Jimmy Choo, Dior and Versace. Needless to say we did not shop here as teens, but there was a cinema at Copley as well, which I have discovered closed in the early 2000s.

If you continue straight through the plaza, you will find signs for the pedestrian bridge to the Prudential Center, for additional shopping and one of my high school friends’ favourite spots, California Pizza Kitchen.

The Pru, as it is sometimes known, is another stop on the Green line, and so you can also do this walk in reverse if you are so inclined. It is worth pointing out, however, that Copley is the last stop on the Green line before it splits into multiple branches, so picking up the subway there can be a bit faster.

And that is it! My favourite walk through the city – not particularly long or challenging, but passes some great spots and brings back plenty of memories. I am sure I will go into more detail about some areas of Boston in the future.

if you are in the city and want to try the route yourself, check out this route map: