In spring of 2021, Scotland had been in pandemic lockdown since Boxing Day 2020 (the day after Christmas). Then finally, in April, the word came – we were for the first time permitted to leave our ‘local area’. We could leave Fife!
A walk was the most inevitable choice for our first out-of-county adventure, as there were still plenty of restrictions in place and staying outdoors was ideal. So, we chose for our first adventure a walk we had never tried before – the Hermitage Woodland Walk.
Through reading various websites, we opted to drive to the Rumbling Bridge end of the path and walk down towards Ossian’s Hall. At first, it seemed an excellent choice – the path was quiet, and the day was pleasant and sunny. But, as we made our first turn onto the Hermitage walk proper, we discovered that we were far from the only people with this idea – hordes of walkers, many clearly not used to such excursions, were enjoying being outdoors. We passed numerous people in flip-flops and carrying take-away coffee cups, girls in sundresses that were not designed for woodland walks, and families with young children and prams that were struggling on the rocky path. In fact, it was so busy that we only just reached the hall before turning back and fleeing to the quieter, further away paths.
A quick note about the route we took in 2021: parking in the Rumbling Bridge car park – which requires turning up the A822 before you reach the Hermitage car park – allows you to hike downhill first, then back up to the bridge, and also to explore the River Braan as it tumbles over boulders and small falls. When walking from the ‘proper’ car park, it is easy not to venture all the way up to the Rumbling Bridge, but I definitely recommend doing so, particularly if you have a liking for rivers and waterfalls. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
My second trip was with a work Step-Count Challenge group about a year later, and it was on this trip that I think was truly able to enjoy the beautiful path. My third trip, also with friends from work, was equally lovely, and we found – several years after the end of pandemic restrictions – a set of picnic benches, coffee and donut wagon, and port-a-loos that were passably clean, all right beside the main car park. Starting here, the path passes under the rail line and follows the river through majestic trees.
This area is wide and mostly flat with only the slightest incline, though the hillside rises sharply above the path. In a short time, there is a fork in the road, and taking the left-hand option leads to the highlight of the visit – an almost Tolkien-esque stone bridge and Ossian’s Hall. It makes sense first to take the short trip down the hill to stand on the bridge, where you can get a stunning view of the Black Linn Falls as well as the large pond beyond the bridge.
If you cross and follow the path to the right, you eventually find yourself with a perfect view back towards Ossian’s Hall. The hall was constructed in the 1780s to replace a summerhouse. In fact, the entirety of the Hermitage is not natural landscape, but was designed as a pleasure ground for the Dukes of Atholl. Once one is aware, the towering Douglas firs do seem a touch too perfectly planted, and indeed the almost elvish or fairy-like forest is a touch too magical.
The view of the falls is even better from within the hall, though at busy times you may have to wait your turn for the best view, as the viewing balcony allows only about 5 or 6 people comfortably. Beyond the hall, there are several places where you can look back at the hall and bridge. I have seen drone shots of the falls where the drone has flown down the river and under the bridge, something I wish I could do myself!
Once you have had your fill of the fantasy land around Ossian’s Hall, you can continue up the path, which starts to gradually ascend as it follows the river. On several occasions I was driven to remark on how much it reminded me of rivers in the White Mountains in New Hampshire – rocky, the water tumbling over the rocks to form peaceful pools and swift rapids, blue sky and trees growing almost out of the riverbank. When hiking with the Step-Count group, we had brought a picnic and found ourselves an ideal picnic spot on some rocks along the river, with views in both directions.
Gradually the path lifts away from the water, as the river sits in a gorge many feet below. There are several side-trips one can take as paths cut closer to the edge of the water (sometimes a steep drop into the gorge) or into the woods to the right. A notable detour is Ossian’s Cave, another constructed portion of the pleasure grounds (called a folly) where, if one is brave, you can duck into the rock construction. It is arguably more pleasant from the outside.
From here the trail continues through varying types of forest as it climbs, and after a slightly steeper ascent through more pines, one reaches a T-junction. Almost immediately ahead is a small stone house that is almost Bob Rossian in its placement amongst the trees, with a stone wall running along the path. It’s a good place to pause in the trees before crossing a small bridge across a burn, into the open. Just beyond a stand of rhododendron is a wide meadow with a grassy hill on one side topped by a rock formation, and gentle slope down on the opposite with views across the hills and valley.
If you have had enough walking for the day this is a good spot to catch your breath for a few moments before heading back down towards the car park. If you’re not done yet, it is only about five or ten more minutes to the Rumbling Bridge. You will notice a lone house on the hill above, which I have learned from Google Maps is in fact a small hotel. In the days of the pandemic, it looked quite lonely – in retrospect I imagine the views are spectacular.
Here the road forks again, and you will want to follow the left fork down the hill towards the bridge. This is an active road, so it is worth being careful to listen out for vehicles who may not see you easily. The bridge itself provides views of the river in both directions, as you would expect, and sits almost directly over the falls, so the ground seems to drop away quite swiftly on the downriver side.
If you make your way to the Rumbling Bridge car park, you will find a map similar to the one at the top of this post with plenty more walk options should you wish to keep going. Or, you can do what we did and spend some time climbing on the rocks out into the river, if you are in to such things.
A visit to the Hermitage is highly recommended for anyone who loves a good walk in the woods. The lower section to Ossian’s Hall is manageable for walkers of almost any ability as it is flat and the path well-kept, while the higher section offers a bit of a climb and some beautiful views. The circuit to Rumbling Bridge and back is not particularly long, but can be boggy in places so sturdy shoes are a must. Prior to my last visit I may also have cautioned about more basic comforts but there are now the port-a-loos available as well as the small van, so you can probably even manage without refreshments. That said, there are some perfect picnic spots along the way, so I would recommend bringing something with you. As long, of course, as you are willing to follow the camping rules I recall from the White Mountains – pack it in, pack it out! It is a shame to see litter on the trails, as we did in 2021.
Another small caution is in the driving; when arriving from the south, it is an easy matter to turn left into the Hermitage park or onto the A822 to reach the Rumbling Bridge end. But, coming back out can be a bit of a challenge. Waiting for a break in the traffic so that you can speed across onto the far side of the A9 is not for the timid or indeed the impatient – it can take quite literally 5 minutes to get back out onto the highway and unfortunately I am not aware of anywhere close by that you can turn around further north.
If you have been on a good walk and are interested in another short wander or something more substantial for food and drink, the town of Dunkeld is only a few minutes away and has plenty of options. It’s a charming wee town to walk around and has remains of a cathedral – what’s not to like?
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The Wandering Medievalist 